Abstract Next-Generation Risk Assessment is defined as an exposure-led, hypothesis-driven risk assessment approach that integrates new approach methodologies (NAMs) to assure safety without the use of animal testing. These principles were applied to a hypothetical safety assessment of 0.1% coumarin in face cream and body lotion. For the purpose of evaluating the use of NAMs, existing animal and human data on coumarin were excluded. Internal concentrations (plasma Cmax) were estimated using a physiologically based kinetic model for dermally applied coumarin. Systemic toxicity was assessed using a battery of in vitro NAMs to identify points of departure (PoDs) for a variety of biological effects such as receptor-mediated and immunomodulatory effects (Eurofins SafetyScreen44 and BioMap Diversity 8 Panel, respectively), and general bioactivity (ToxCast data, an in vitro cell stress panel and high-throughput transcriptomics). In addition, in silico alerts for genotoxicity were followed up with the ToxTracker tool. The PoDs from the in vitro assays were plotted against the calculated in vivo exposure to calculate a margin of safety with associated uncertainty. The predicted Cmax values for face cream and body lotion were lower than all PoDs with margin of safety higher than 100. Furthermore, coumarin was not genotoxic, did not bind to any of the 44 receptors tested and did not show any immunomodulatory effects at consumer-relevant exposures. In conclusion, this case study demonstrated the value of integrating exposure science, computational modeling and in vitro bioactivity data, to reach a safety decision without animal data.

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In this review, we discuss and compare studies of xenobiotic metabolism in both human skin and 3D human skin reconstructs. In comparison to the liver, the skin is a less studied organ in terms of characterising metabolic capability. While the skin forms the major protective barrier to environmental chemical exposure, it is also a potential target organ for adverse health effects. Occupational, accidental or intended-use exposure to toxic chemicals could result in acute or delayed injury to the skin (e.g. inflammation, allergy, cancer). Skin metabolism may play a role in the manifestation or amelioration of adverse effects via the topical route. Today, we have robust testing strategies to assess the potential for local skin toxicity of chemical exposure. Such methods (e.g. the local lymph node assay for assessing skin sensitisation; skin painting carcinogenicity studies) incorporate skin metabolism implicitly in the in vivo model system used. In light of recent European legislation (i.e. 7(th) Amendment to the Cosmetics Directive and Registration Evaluation and Authorisation of existing Chemicals (REACH)), non-animal approaches will be required to reduce and replace animal experiments for chemical risk assessment. It is expected that new models and approaches will need to account for skin metabolism explicitly, as the mechanisms of adverse effects in the skin are deconvoluted. 3D skin models have been proposed as a tool to use in new in vitro alternative approaches. In order to be able to use 3D skin models in this context, we need to understand their metabolic competency in relation to xenobiotic biotransformation and whether functional activity is representative of that seen in human skin.

Among the factors determining the propensity of a chemical to induce skin allergy are the penetration into skin and the kinetics of ingress. Confocal Raman spectroscopy can provide such information as it enables direct, spatially resolved measurement of the skin and of any chemical uptake. Several chemicals can be monitored at once, and the method is non-destructive (light in, light out) so that the skin can be kept intact for repeated and continuous measurement. Raman spectroscopy was used to follow the penetration of 2.5 weight percent trans-cinnamaldehyde and its delivery vehicle into skin in vitro, up to 24 h after topical application. A custom-made Bronaugh-type diffusion cell that was suitable for the Raman experiment was used. Four different vehicles were tested: absolute ethanol, 50% aqueous ethanol, propylene glycol and acetone:olive oil (4:1); these gave different time scales for cinnamaldehyde penetration. The acetone:olive oil vehicle phase-separated on the skin surface and the cinnamaldehyde penetrated at different rates in the different phases, which may be of significance since this is the preferred solvent for the local lymph node assay (an in vivo animal test used to generate hazard information on skin sensitization). In conclusion, the Raman method gives valuable detailed information on chemical ingress, clearly differentiates between different delivery rates and allows solvent monitoring alongside the chemical of interest.