Wave‐supported gravity flows (WSGFs) generate rates of sediment flux far exceeding other cross‐shelf transport processes, contributing disproportionately to shelf morphology and net cross‐shelf fluxes of sediment in many regions worldwide. However, the conditions deemed necessary for the formation of WSGF limit them to a narrow set of shelf conditions; they have been observed exclusively in regions where the seabed consists of very fine‐grained sediment and typically co‐occur with nearby river flood events. Here we document the occurrence of a WSGF event on a predominantly sandy seabed and in the absence of a preceding river flood. Our measurements confirm that the dynamics are governed by the friction‐buoyancy balance observed in other WSGF and that WSGF can form in mixed grain‐size environments and transport high concentrations of sand. The occurrence of WSGF on a predominantly sandy seabed suggests that they may occur under a much wider range of conditions and, given the global prevalence of sandy shelves, they may be a more frequent and more ubiquitous feature of shelf dynamics than previously thought.

We present a new mechanism for cross‐shore transport of fine sediment from the nearshore to the inner shelf resulting from the onshore propagation of river plume fronts. Onshore frontal propagation is observed in moorings and radar images, which show that fronts penetrate onshore through the nearshore and surf zone, almost to the waterline. During frontal passage a two‐layer counterrotating velocity field characteristic of tidal straining is immediately set up, generating a net offshore flow beneath the plume. The seaward flow at depth carries with it high suspended sediment concentrations, which appear to have been generated by wave resuspension in the nearshore region. These observations describe a mechanism by which vertical density stratification can drive exchange of material between the nearshore region and the inner shelf. To our knowledge these are the first observations of this frontal pumping mechanism, which is expected to play an important role in sediment transport near river mouths.

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ABSTRACT. The SWAN wave model is widely used in coastal waters, and the main focus of this work is on its application in a harbour. A recently released version of SWAN now includes an approximation to compute diffraction, however there are few published works that discuss this matter. The performance of the model is therefore investigated in a harbour where reflection and diffraction play a relevant role. To assess its estimates, a phase-resolving Boussinesq wave model is employed as well, together with measurements carried on at a small-scale model of the area behind the breakwater. For irregular, short-crested waves with broad directional spreading, the importance of diffraction is relatively small. On the other hand, reflection of the incident waves is significant, increasing the energy inside the harbour. Nevertheless, when the SWAN model is set to compute diffraction and reflection simultaneously, it does not achieve convergence. It is concluded that for situations typically encountered in harbours, with irregular waves near reflective obstacles, the model should be used without diffraction.Keywords: wind waves, SWAN 40.51 wave model, wave reflection and diffraction.RESUMO. O modelo de geração e propagação de ondas SWANé amplamente utilizado pela comunidade científica para obtenção de estimativas do espectro de ondas emáreas costeiras, lagos e estuários. O cálculo da difração não era representado no modelo tornando as simulações em regiões próximas a obstáculos ou portos menos precisas. Recentemente, uma aproximação para o cálculo da difração foi implementada, porém poucos trabalhos publicados até o momento abordam esta questão. Seu desempenhoé então investigado em um terminal portuário, uma região onde difração e reflexão são importantes. Para validar suas estimativas, um modelo baseado nas equações de Boussinesqé empregado juntamente com medições realizadas em um modelo em escala reduzida do porto. Para ondas irregulares, com espalhamento direcional mais amplo, a importância da difraçãoé comparativamente menor. A reflexão das ondas incidentes, por sua vez,é significativa aumentando a energia dentro do porto. Contudo, os cálculos do modelo não convergem quando SWANé configurado para computar difração e reflexão simultaneamente. Conclui-se que, para situações tipicamente encontradas em portos, com ondas irregulares próximas a obstáculos refletivos, a presente versão do SWAN deve ser configurada sem a opção de cálculo da difração.Palavras-chave: ondas geradas pelo vento, modelo de ondas SWAN 40.51, reflexão e difração de ondas.