Metal-based
antiperspirants have been in use for centuries; however,
there is an increasing consumer demand for a metal-free alternative
that works effectively. Here, we develop an artificial sweat duct
rig and demonstrate an alternative, metal-free approach to antiperspiration.
Instead of clogging sweat ducts with metal salts, we use a hygroscopic
material to induce the evaporation of sweat as it approaches the outlet
(i.e. pore) of the sweat duct. As a result, the sweat dehydrates almost
completely while still being inside of the duct, forming a natural
gel-like salt plug that halts the flow. We show that the critical
pressure gradient within the duct (∼3 kPa), beneath which clogging
occurs, can be rationalized by balancing the mass flow rates of the
liquid (Poiseuille’s law) and the evaporative vapor (Fick’s
law).
Aluminum hydrolysis chemistry is
an important part of modern society
because of the dominance of Al(III) as a highly effective antiperspirant
active. However, the century-old chemistry centered on aluminum chloride
(ACL) is not comprehensive enough to address all of the
in
vivo
events associated with current commercial antiperspirants
and their mechanism of action. The present study aims to address the
knowledge gap among extensively studied benchmark ACL, its modified
version aluminum chlorohydrate (ACH), and a more complex but less
explored group of aluminum zirconium chlorohydrate glycine complexes
(ZAG salts) toward understanding the mechanism of action under consumer-relevant
conditions. ACH, which is the Al source used in the manufacture of
ZAG salts, provides a bridge between ACL and ZAG chemistry. High viscosity
and gel formation driven by pH and a specific Al(III) salt upon hydrolysis
are considered the criteria for building an
in vivo
occlusive mass to retard or stop the flow of sweat to the skin surface,
thus providing an antiperspirant effect. Rheological studies indicated
that ACL and aluminum zirconium tetrachlorohydrex glycine (TETRA)
were the most efficacious salt actives. Spectroscopic studies, diffraction
studies, and elemental analysis suggested that small metal oxide and
hydroxide species with coparticipating glycine as well as various
polynuclear and oligomeric species are the key to gel formation. At
a given pH, the key ingredients (NaCl, urea, bovine serum albumin,
and lactic acid) in artificial sweat were found to have little influence
on Al(III) salt hydrolysis. The effects of the sweat components were
mostly limited to local complex formation and kinetic modification.
The
in vitro
comparative experiments with various
Al(III) and ZAG salt systems offer unprecedented insights into the
chemistry of different salt types, thus paving the way for engineering
more efficacious antiperspirant systems.
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