No abstract

Manuscrito recibido el 14 de marzo de 2016. Aceptado, tras revisión, el 12 de octubre de 2016. ResumenPiper pubinervulum C. DC., es una planta medicinal utilizada por los indígenas amazónicos del sur del Ecuador, las hojas poseen características aromáticas. El objetivo de la presente investigación es la de extraer y analizar las propiedades químicas y de actividad biológica del aceite esencial proveniente de las hojas.El estudio de composición química a través de GC-EM y RMN 1 H arrojó la detección de 44 constituyentes dentro de los cuales β cariofileno, isoeugenol-metil éter, asarona y el nerolidol fueron los mayoritarios. La Actividad antioxidante del aceite fue evaluada por los métodos DPPH (1,1-diphenyl-2-picrylhydrazyl), ABTS (2,2'-azinobis(3-ethylbenzothiazoline-6-sulfonic acid) diammonium salt) y la fotoquimioluminiscencia (PCL). Adicionalmente se realizaron estudios de actividad empleando (HP)TLC-DPPH bioautográficos. La actividad antimicrobiana fue evaluada por el método de difusión de disco en dos bacterias Gram+, dos bacterias Gram-y dos levaduras. Los resultados más interesantes se producen con las dos levaduras Candida tropicalis (MIC 0,77 mg/ml) y Candida albicans (MIC 0,33mg/ml) donde la actividad fue similar al aceite esencial de Thymus vulgaris el estándar natural de referencia. Los buenos resultados con respecto a la actividad antifúngica nos llevan a concluir que el aceite esencial podría ser usado con esta finalidad. AbstractPiper puvinervulum C. DC. is a medicinal plant used by Amazon Indians in southern Ecuador, the leaves possess aromatic characteristics. The objective of this research is to extract and analyze the chemical properties and biological activity of the essential oil from the leaves. The study of the chemical composition based on analysis GC-MS and 1 H RMN data resulted in the identification of 44 compounds including the main components: β-caryophyllene (1), isoeugenol methyl ether (2), asarona (3), and nerolidol (4). The antioxidant potential of the oils was assessed with the DPPH (1,1-diphenyl-2-picrylhydrazyl), ABTS (2,2'-Azinobis(3-ethylbenzothiazoline-6-sulfonic acid) diammonium salt), Photochemiluminescence and bioautographic HPTLC-DPPH methods. The antimicrobial activity was evaluated by means of disc diffusion method while the antimicrobial effect was evaluated in two Gram+ bacteria, two Gram-bacteria, and two yeasts. The essential oil was found effective against Candida tropicalis (MIC 0,77 mg/ml) and Candida albicans (MIC 0,33mg/ml) yeasts in a manner similar to the reference essential oil of Thymus vulgaris. The positive results in terms of antifungal activity suggest that the essential oil could be used for this purpose.

Introduction: Sensory analysis is a subjective method that evaluates a product through the use of human senses. In this case, the objective is to determine if the incorporation of essential oils in cosmetic formulas is perceived as pleasant based on a scale of preference of 9 points (hedonic scale) in which 9 indicates "like extremely" and 1 "dislike extremely". The sensorial attribute evaluated is "aroma", referring to the odors or essences that can be detected through olfaction (sense of smell). The essential oils used in these formulations are: Aristeguietia glutinosa (matico), Ocotea quixos (ishpingo). Bibliographic references have established the antioxidant properties of these oils making them interesting ingredients for cosmetic formulations with claims of anti-aging properties given their antioxidant potential. Methods: Two cosmetic forms are evaluated, creams and lotions, in which 0.4-6.6 and 0.8% of a mixture of oils are incorporated in 2 proportions, 20:80 (20% matico, 80% ishpingo) and 80:20 (80% matico, 20% ishpingo). A hedonic test was performed with a panel of 32 untrained consumers, based on a balanced experimental design in which each sample is presented in a different order, a monadic evaluation is performed one sample at a time, and the attribute "aroma" is evaluated in 3 different moments: T0, "aroma in container"; T1, "aroma on skin"; and T2,"aroma on skin after five minutes time". Results: The results are evaluated by means of an analysis of variance (ANOVA) and group differences were determined via Duncan tests. The results reflect statistical differences regarding the cosmetic in its lotion form, with the most preferred samples being those containing 0.4% of the essential oils, regardless of whether the proportion of matico-to-ishpingo is 20:80 or 80:20. Conclusion: Sensory analysis allows to identify the degree of acceptance of cosmetic products and thus guide research and development processes. With this in mind, although there is no significant differential in the perception of aroma at least in the cosmetic form of cream, there are significant differences in lotion form.

The present work makes a general bibliographical review around a variety of issues around Cymbopogon citrates and tries to summarize the most important aspect and qualities of the plant that make it a potential element in the research and defining of cosmetics with natural ingredients. The biological antibacterial and antifungal activities of the species Cymbopogon citratus (DC) Stapf, have been identified by several authors by highlighting a potential action on a large number of pathogens, some of them related to dermal problems. Various other activities have been evaluated, such as antioxidant and insecticide; allowing the extract to be incorporated in cosmetic and insecticide formulations. Several studies consider the species for patented formulations that include microencapsulation as a viable option. Non-invasive in-vivo studies have been reviewed in this work to analyse any potential toxicology and to define the best concentrations of use.

Manuscrito recibido el 20 de septiembre de 2012. Aceptado, tras revisión, el 13 de diciembre de 2012. ResumenInvestigaciones anteriores demuestran la actividad antioxidante de los aceites de Mauritua flexuosa (Morete), Plukenetia volubilis (Sacha inchi) y Oenocarpus bataua (Ungurahua), se realizaron formulaciones de cremas de aplicación cosmética y emulsiones básicas, evitando que el uso de demasiados ingredientes puedan interferir en lo que se consideran como "activos" dentro de la formulación cosmética (aceites con potencial antioxidante).Las muestras fueron evaluadas en un estudio in vivo no invasivo, utilizando una muestra de 30 mujeres que presentaban cierto grado de fotoenvejecimiento. Se realizó una evaluación clínica dermatológica y una evaluación instrumental utilizando el Cutometer MPA580, equipo que permite visualizar las modificaciones en la elasticidad y firmeza cutánea. La evaluación se la hizo al inicio y luego de cuatro semanas de utilizar el producto y los datos fueron sometidos al análisis de varianza.Los resultados del estudio demuestran que a los 28 días de tratamiento, la evaluación clínica las cremas muestran una mejorara significativa en la luminosidad y suavidad de la piel, y la evaluación instrumental indica que se logró una mejoría en la firmeza y elasticidad de la piel.