Stress-induced oxidative damage and the inflammatory response lead to degradation of collagen and elastic fibres and wrinkle formation. Topical retinol (or vitamin A) can be a strategy to attenuate the effects of stress in skin as it promotes collagen and elastic fibre production and reduces protease synthesis. This study investigated the effect of topical retinol in stressed human skin using in vitro and ex vivo models. Human skin explants were treated with high levels of epinephrine (as observed in stressed patients) and topically with retinol for 13 days. Human dermal fibroblasts were treated with conditioned medium of ex vivo retinol-treated and non-stressed (without epinephrine) human skin for 24 hours. In ex vivo human skin, retinol reversed the epinephrine-induced reduction in epidermal proliferation and differentiation, normalizing epidermal thickness. Retinol also inhibited the epinephrine-induced reduction in elastic fibre deposition and organization, restoring dermal thickness. In addition, retinol reversed the epinephrine-induced increase in c-JUN protein expression, but it did not alter extracellular signal-regulated kinase 1/2 (ERK) phosphorylation in ex vivo human skin. Conditioned medium of ex vivo retinol-treated and non-stressed human skin presented an increased protein expression of epidermal growth factor (EGF). In human dermal fibroblasts, conditioned medium of ex vivo retinol-treated and non-stressed human skin increased protein and gene expression of fibrillin-1 and protein expression of EGF receptor (EGFR). In conclusion, topical retinol attenuates stress-induced skin ageing signs in human skin ex vivo, probably through EGFR activation via EGF, but not by the stress-activated ERK 1/2 and c-JUN pathways.

Background Aqueous formulations of vitamin C stabilized by vitamin E and ferulic acid at low pH effectively protect skin against reactive oxygen species‐induced damage. However, the effects of these formulations on human skin have not clearly been described. The aim of this study was to investigate whether topical application of two commercially available formulations of vitamin C alter human skin using an ex vivo model. Methods Human skin explants were topically treated on alternate days with commercially available formulation 1 (15% vitamin C) at 100% (without dilution), 50%, or 10% diluted in saline or formulation 2 (20% vitamin C) at 100% (without dilution), 50%, or 10% diluted in saline. Only saline was applied to control skin explants. Results Topical formulation 1 at 100%, 50%, or 10%, but not formulation 2 at 100%, 50%, or 10%, reduced the viability of ex vivo human skin compared to the control after 7, 10, and 13 days. In addition, compared to the control, ex vivo human skin treated with formulation 1 at 50%, but not formulation 2 at 50%, also decreased mRNA levels of actin and ribosomal protein L10 and gene expression of extracellular matrix components after 10 days. Furthermore, after 10 days, topical application of formulation 1 at 50%, but not formulation 2 at 50%, decreased the protein expression of proliferating cellular nuclear antigen, lysyl oxidase, β‐actin, and glyceraldehyde‐3‐phosphate dehydrogenase compared to the control. Conclusions Topical formulation 1, but not formulation 2, may reduce the viability of and protein synthesis in ex vivo human skin. Those effects might be due to action of vehicle of formulation 1 on ex vivo human skin.