Topical application of a commercially available formulation of vitamin C stabilized by vitamin E and ferulic acid reduces tissue viability and protein synthesis in ex vivo human normal skin

Abstract

Background Aqueous formulations of vitamin C stabilized by vitamin E and ferulic acid at low pH effectively protect skin against reactive oxygen species‐induced damage. However, the effects of these formulations on human skin have not clearly been described. The aim of this study was to investigate whether topical application of two commercially available formulations of vitamin C alter human skin using an ex vivo model. Methods Human skin explants were topically treated on alternate days with commercially available formulation 1 (15% vitamin C) at 100% (without dilution), 50%, or 10% diluted in saline or formulation 2 (20% vitamin C) at 100% (without dilution), 50%, or 10% diluted in saline. Only saline was applied to control skin explants. Results Topical formulation 1 at 100%, 50%, or 10%, but not formulation 2 at 100%, 50%, or 10%, reduced the viability of ex vivo human skin compared to the control after 7, 10, and 13 days. In addition, compared to the control, ex vivo human skin treated with formulation 1 at 50%, but not formulation 2 at 50%, also decreased mRNA levels of actin and ribosomal protein L10 and gene expression of extracellular matrix components after 10 days. Furthermore, after 10 days, topical application of formulation 1 at 50%, but not formulation 2 at 50%, decreased the protein expression of proliferating cellular nuclear antigen, lysyl oxidase, β‐actin, and glyceraldehyde‐3‐phosphate dehydrogenase compared to the control. Conclusions Topical formulation 1, but not formulation 2, may reduce the viability of and protein synthesis in ex vivo human skin. Those effects might be due to action of vehicle of formulation 1 on ex vivo human skin.

Ascorbic acid 2‐glucoside: An ascorbic acid pro‐drug with longer‐term antioxidant efficacy in skin

“…By contrast, for the stabilized form of AA (AA2G), the percentage of AA2G in the formulation was unchanged up to 1 month after vial opening, with a formulation pH of ~5.5, which is more physiological for the skin [51]. Wably, while undiluted AA2G and AA at concentrations up to 10% have been shown not to be skin irritants or sensitizers [52, 53], the acidic formulation at pH 2.5 of 15% AA, may result in alteration of the skin structure causing a loss of viability and function, as shown by others [54].…”

Development of a Novel Electrochemical Biosensor Based on Carbon Nanofibers–Gold Nanoparticles–Tyrosinase for the Detection of Ferulic Acid in Cosmetics

“…Antioxidant compounds with demonstrated efficacy include ferulic acid. Originally, FA was used in cosmetic products as a stabilizer of other popular antioxidants, like vitamin C and vitamin E [ 19 ]. However, research shows that this compound may be an active ingredient supporting the intracellular anti-antioxidant defense systems [ 4 ].…”

Rapid determination of L‐ascorbic acid content in vitamin C serums by ultra‐high‐performance liquid chromatography–tandem mass spectrometry

“…La méthode proposée pourrait être puissante dans les analyses de routine pour assurer la quantification de l'acide L-ascorbique dans les sérums à la vitamine C puisqu'elle s'est avérée être une méthode analytique simple, fiable, rapide, précise, exacte et sensible. [15]. Only formulations with a pH of 3.5 or lower assist transport by promoting the uncharged form of L-AA [9].…”

“…Moreover, percutaneous L‐AA absorption depends on factors such as pH and concentration of the preparations [15]. Only formulations with a pH of 3.5 or lower assist transport by promoting the uncharged form of L‐AA [9].…”