A Novel Method for Generating Continuously Surfable Waves—Comparison of Predictions With Experimental Results

Abstract

In this paper, a novel idea to produce continuous breaking waves is discussed, whereby a pressure source is rotated within an annular wave pool, with the inner ring of the annulus having a sloping bathymetry to induce wave breaking. In order to refine the technique, work is being conducted to better understand the mechanics of surfable waves generated by moving pressure sources in restricted water. The pool aims to be capable of creating waves suitable for surfers from beginner to expert level, with an added benefit being by providing a safe learning environment, the overall surfing ability of the participants should be improved. The method of approach reported in this paper is the first stage of an Currently employed as Dean, Maritime at the Higher Colleges of Technology. United Arab Emirates (UAE). experimental investigation of a novel method for generating continuously surfable waves utilizing a moving pressure source. The aim was to measure and assess the waves generated by two parabolic pressure sources and a wedge-shaped wavedozer (Driscoll, A., andRenilson, M. R., 1980, The Wavedozer. A System of Generating Stationary Waves in a Circulating Water Channel, University of Glasgow, Naval Architecture and Ocean Engineering, Glasgow, UK) for their suitability for future development of continuous breaking surfable waves. The tests were conducted at the University of Tasmania (UTas) Australian Maritime College (AMC) 100 m long towing tank. The predictions and experimental results for the wave height (H) at different values of depth Froude number (Fr ) are presented in this paper. Finally, the preferred pressure source is determined based on the wave making energy efficiency and the quality of the waves for surfing.

Physical Requirements for a Takeoff in Surfing

“…Thus scientific study of takeoff in surfing, ought to bring improvements, in both surfboards, and surfing skills, as well as artificial surf points, proposed by e.g. Walker et al (1972), West et al (2003), Schipper (2007), Vries (2007), Schmied et al (2013), and Kimura et al (2014).…”

Surf Points Using a Set of Structures to Amplify Ship Generated Waves

“…On the other hand, various ideas have been presented to generate surfable waves in artificial water pools (e.g. Schipper, 2007;Vries, 2007;Schmied et al, 2013). The objective of the present study is to build surf points at calm locations in the field by generating or amplifying waves for surfing.…”