Annual mean waves for the littoral drift formula

Mano, Akira; Hasanudin, Muhammad; Sawamoto, Masaki

doi:10.2208/prooe.12.55

Cited by 3 publications

(2 citation statements)

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“…The values of Y 0 and a are estimated to be equal to −270 m and 60 m, respectively. The model parameter ε is estimated to be 13 m 2 /h, based on previous investigations in this study area for longshore sediment transport rate [Mano et al, 1996] and also for the depth of closure [Uda, 1997]. Furthermore, constant wave height and period from wave climate statistics are used, because measured data is not available due to destruction of a wave gauge by tsunami.…”

Section: Akaikomentioning

confidence: 99%

Coastal and Estuarine Morphology Changes Induced by the 2011 Great East Japan Earthquake Tsunami

Tanaka

Tinh

Umeda

et al. 2012

Coastal Engineering Journal

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136

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had magnitude of 9.0 on the Richter Scale with the epicenter approximately 70 km east of the Oshika Peninsula in Miyagi Prefecture. This earthquake triggered terrible tsunami waves which hit the coast of Japan and propagated around the Pacific Ocean. The earthquake and tsunami caused extensive and severe infrastructural damage, such as damages of coastal protection structures and buildings, and significantly changed coastal and river morphology. This paper presents tsunami-induced coastal and estuarine morphology changes in Miyagi Prefecture, Japan, and subsequent recovery process in each study area. On sandy coasts, discontinuous coastal protection is likely to be severely damaged, resulting in serious erosion in the surrounding sandy coast. Furthermore, severe breaching was observed on sandy coasts where formerly river mouth was located, due to strong return flow from the catchment area. The restoration process of the coast and estuaries is highly dependent on sediment supply availability in the surrounding area. Coast. Eng. J. 2012.54. Downloaded from www.worldscientific.com by NANYANG TECHNOLOGICAL UNIVERSITY on 08/23/15. For personal use only. H. Tanaka et al. 1250010-2 Coast. Eng. J. 2012.54. Downloaded from www.worldscientific.com by NANYANG TECHNOLOGICAL UNIVERSITY on 08/23/15. For personal use only. Coastal and Estuarine Morphology Changes 1250010-3 Coast. Eng. J. 2012.54. Downloaded from www.worldscientific.com by NANYANG TECHNOLOGICAL UNIVERSITY on 08/23/15. For personal use only. 1250010-5 Coast. Eng. J. 2012.54. Downloaded from www.worldscientific.com by NANYANG TECHNOLOGICAL UNIVERSITY on 08/23/15. For personal use only. 1250010-6 Coast. Eng. J. 2012.54. Downloaded from www.worldscientific.com by NANYANG TECHNOLOGICAL UNIVERSITY on 08/23/15. For personal use only. Coastal and Estuarine Morphology Changes 1250010-16 Coast. Eng. J. 2012.54. Downloaded from www.worldscientific.com by NANYANG TECHNOLOGICAL UNIVERSITY on 08/23/15. For personal use only. 1250010-19 Coast. Eng. J. 2012.54. Downloaded from www.worldscientific.com by NANYANG TECHNOLOGICAL UNIVERSITY on 08/23/15. For personal use only. 1250010-23 Coast. Eng. J. 2012.54. Downloaded from www.worldscientific.com by NANYANG TECHNOLOGICAL UNIVERSITY on 08/23/15. For personal use only. H. Tanaka et al.

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Section: Akaikomentioning

confidence: 99%

Coastal and Estuarine Morphology Changes Induced by the 2011 Great East Japan Earthquake Tsunami

Tanaka

Tinh

Umeda

et al. 2012

Coastal Engineering Journal

Self Cite

136

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“…fluks energi gelombang menggunakan persamaan berikut (Mano et al, 1996): 5 Hasil analisis validasi pada tahun 2012 menunjukkan kesesuaian yang baik, dimana nilai R2 garis pantai estimasi dan observasi bernilai 0,97 menandakan bahwa keterkaitan antara dua data tersebut sangat baik. Nilai RMSE dan Bias pada tahun 2012 cukup kecil sehingga dapat dikatakan garis pantai estimasi mendekati garis pantai observasi.…”

Section: Perhitunganunclassified

Identifikasi Perubahan Garis Pantai Menggunakan Perangkat Coastsat, Studi Kasus Segmen Pantai Nusa Dua, Bali

Permatasari

Suprijo

Soeksmantono

2023

JTH

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Nusa Dua Beach, Bali, is morphologically dynamic because it is constantly changing due to erosion and accretion. In 2003, the efforts were made to develop groins, where this one of the solutions to overcome erosion. Analysis of shoreline changes needs to be carried out to see the effectiveness of groin development by looking at the shoreline before and after construction using Landsat imagery data for 26 years. This research method utilizes the Modified Normalized Difference Water Index (MNDWI) algorithm to separate water from land features, classify images into four classes: sand, water, foam, and land features using the Coastsat toolkit and calculate wave energy flux. Before the construction, The GA1-GA2 groins experienced successive erosion in 1996-2002. After construction of the coastal groins, it still shows a decline in the coastline both during the west monsoon, which is 63.68 m and the east monsoon which is 36.21 m. In the east monsoon, the wave energy flux is most significant, with a maximum value of 4.9 x 10³ N/s, and in the west monsoon 3.4 x 10³ N/s. The effect of the significant wave energy flux that occurs in the east monsoon causes more longshore sediment transport, and the coast experiences a maximum shoreline advance in the east monsoon of 65.24 m compared of the west monsoon shoreline, which is 58.28 m. The toolkit can identify with better accuracy by validating estimation and observation data with an RMSE value of 4.79 m, a bias of 2.62 m, and an R2 of 0.97.Keywords: Shoreline, Erosion, Landsat, Wave Energy Flux ABSTRAKPantai Nusa Dua, Bali dapat dikatakan secara morfologi dinamis dikarenakan selalu mengalami perubahan akibat erosi dan akresi. Tahun 2003 telah dilakukan upaya pembangunan groin yang merupakan salah satu solusi untuk menanggulangi terjadinya erosi. Analisis perubahan garis pantai perlu dilakukan untuk melihat efektivitas dari pembangunan groin dengan melihat garis pantai sebelum dan sesudah pembangunan dengan memanfaatkan data citra Landsat selama 26 tahun. Metode penelitian ini memanfaatkan algoritma Modified Normalized Difference Water Index (MNDWI) untuk memisahkan air dari fitur daratan, mengklasifikasi citra menjadi empat kelas: pasir, air, buih dan fitur lahan dengan menggunakan toolkit Coastsat serta menghitung fluks energi gelombang. Sebelum pembangunan groin GA1-GA2, pantai mengalami erosi pada tahun 1996-2002. Setelah pembangunan groin pantai masih menunjukkan terjadi kemunduran garis pantai pada saat musim barat 63,68 m maupun musim timur 36,21 m. Pada musim timur fluks energi gelombang terbesar dengan nilai maksimum 4,9 x 10³ N/s dan pada musim barat fluks energi maksimum yaitu sebesar 3,4 x 10³ N/s Efek dari besarnya fluks energi gelombang yang terjadi di musim timur menyebabkan angkutan sedimen sejajar pantai lebih besar dan pantai mengalami kemajuan garis pantai maksimum di musim timur 65,24 m dibandingkan dengan musim barat 58,28 m. Toolkit coastsat mampu mengindentifikasi garis pantai lebih efisien dengan ketelitian lebih baik dengan validasi data estimasi dan observasi bernilai RMSE 4,79 m, bias 2,62 m dan R2 0,97.Kata Kunci: Garis Pantai, Erosi, Landsat, Fluks Energi Gelombang

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Longshore propagation erosion of beach in the vicinity of tsunami-induced concave shoreline

Hoang

Tanaka

Mitobe

2019

Journal of Hydro-environment Research

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Annual mean waves for the littoral drift formula

Cited by 3 publications

References 1 publication

Coastal and Estuarine Morphology Changes Induced by the 2011 Great East Japan Earthquake Tsunami

Coastal and Estuarine Morphology Changes Induced by the 2011 Great East Japan Earthquake Tsunami

Identifikasi Perubahan Garis Pantai Menggunakan Perangkat Coastsat, Studi Kasus Segmen Pantai Nusa Dua, Bali

Longshore propagation erosion of beach in the vicinity of tsunami-induced concave shoreline

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