Arbutin as a Skin Depigmenting Agent with Antimelanogenic and Antioxidant Properties

Abstract

Arbutin is a compound of hydroquinone and D-glucose, and it has been over 30 years since there have been serious studies on the skin lightening action of this substance. In the meantime, there have been debates and validation studies about the mechanism of action of this substance as well as its skin lightening efficacy and safety. Several analogs or derivatives of arbutin have been developed and studied for their melanin synthesis inhibitory action. Formulations have been developed to improve the stability, transdermal delivery, and release of arbutin, and device usage to promote skin absorption has been developed. Substances that inhibit melanin synthesis synergistically with arbutin have been explored. The skin lightening efficacy of arbutin alone or in combination with other active ingredients has been clinically evaluated. Combined therapy with arbutin and laser could give enhanced depigmenting efficacy. The use of arbutin causes dermatitis rarely, and caution is recommended for the use of arbutin-containing products, especially from the viewpoint that hydroquinone may be generated during product use. Studies on the antioxidant properties of arbutin are emerging, and these antioxidant properties are proposed to contribute to the skin depigmenting action of arbutin. It is hoped that this review will help to understand the pros and cons of arbutin as a cosmetic ingredient, and will lead to future research directions for developing advanced skin lightening and protecting cosmetic products.

Mechanistic Basis and Clinical Evidence for the Applications of Nicotinamide (Niacinamide) to Control Skin Aging and Pigmentation

“…If nicotinamide plays a role in inhibiting melanosome transfer in preventing skin pigmentation, combining it with other active ingredients that play a different role would maximize the effect. Potential candidates for combination with nicotinamide for this purpose may include substances that inhibit the expression of enzymes involved in melanin synthesis [ 149 , 150 ], that inhibit the catalytic activity of an enzyme [ 151 , 152 , 153 ], and/or that reduce the relative ratio of eumelanin to pheomelanin [ 154 , 155 ].…”

Anti-Aging Effects of a Serum Based on Coconut Oil Combined with Deer Antler Stem Cell Extract on a Mouse Model of Skin Aging

“…These cosmetic products specifically contain ingredients or nutrients that help promote healthy skin and may include vitamins (C, E), minerals, and antioxidants (kinetin, lipoic acid and compounds). Chemicals such as polyphenols, flavonoids, arbutin and carotenoids [ 10 , 11 , 12 , 13 ]. Safe, natural products are gaining attention, and plant compounds are increasingly favored as cosmetic ingredients because they can protect and heal the skin [ 14 ].…”

Siegesbeckiae Herba Extract and Chlorogenic Acid Ameliorate the Death of HaCaT Keratinocytes Exposed to Airborne Particulate Matter by Mitigating Oxidative Stress

“…Plants are a good source of natural products with biological activities that are potentially useful for maintaining skin health and beauty [ 20 , 21 , 22 , 23 ]. It should be noted that certain phytochemicals can act as either antioxidants or prooxidants and have a positive or negative effect on cell survival depending on their type and concentration [ 24 , 25 , 26 , 27 ].…”