Effects of Structure and Finishing on the Mechanical and Dimensional Properties of Wool Fabrics

Abstract

We have investigated the effects of the interaction between fabric cover factor and finishing on fabric properties with a systematically designed array of fabric structures and finishing treatments. Permanent setting induced in finishing had the greater effect on fabric mechanical and dimensional properties. For lightly finished fabrics with a low degree of set, the influence of cover factor was significant. For the entire range of plain weave and twill fabrics, the hygral expansion could be related to the weave crimp and the shear properties of the fabric. There was also a contribution from yarn curvilinear expansion.The tailoring performance of woven wool fabrics is affected by a wide range of fabric properties. Extensive research conducted since the 1960s has indicated that the more important fabric properties in producing suits and tailored garments with good appearance and stability are fabric weight; bending, shear, and tensile properties; longitudinal compressibility; dimensional stability; and possibly surface frictional characteristics [9,10,11,12,14,18]. Various data charts [ 12] have been developed using different combinations of mechanical properties to define the region in which fabrics would be expected to have good tailoring performance and handle. Naturally, the details of such charts are determined by the end-use requirements of the fabric (e.g., men's suiting or ladies' wear). Formability, derived from fabric bending and longitudinal compressional properties, or from bending and tensile properties, has been shown to predict tailoring performance to some extent [9, 10]. Other formability parameters incorporating bending, shear, and tensile properties have also been used [ 14]. Predictors of seam pucker and overall tailoring performance [ 15] (derived from a range of mechanical data) have also been developed with limited success.Although these approaches have ascertained the properties that ensure good tailorability, there remains the problem of predicting a fabric's mechanical properties and dimensional stability from the construction and the routine used to finish it. Moreover, a finisher would be greatly aided by a knowledge of how fabric properties might be changed if they fall outside the guidelines set by the tailor.In the 1960s, Karrholm and co-workers examined the effect of fabric structure and finishing on some of the mechanical properties of wool fabrics [5]. They concluded that (a) finish was more important than construction in determining some fabric properties, e.g., bending stiffness and shear stiffness, (b) the properties of highly sett (high cover factor) fabrics were more affected by finishing than those of lightly sett (low cover factor) fabrics, and (c) the effect of construction was more pronounced in lightly finished fabrics. More recently, Mori described techniques, both successful and unsuccessful, used by a Japanese finisher to meet the specifications for fabric properties requested by tailoring firms [ 11 ]. Mori also reported the effect of individual construction and fini...

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