Evolution of the use of antioxidants in anti‐ageing cosmetics

Silva, S.; Ferreira, Marta Salvador; Oliveira, A.; Magalhães, Catarina; Sousa, Marisa; Pinto, Madalena; Lobo, José Manuel Sousa; Almeida, Isabel F.

doi:10.1111/ics.12551

Cited by 72 publications

(52 citation statements)

References 60 publications

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“…Even though EA is a compound widely used in topical products (Jeon et al, 2016, Silva et al, 2019), surprisingly, its physicochemical properties have not been reported to date. Additionally, the skin permeation profile of EA has not been investigated nor have the effects of different vehicles on skin uptake of EA been examined.…”

Section: Introductionmentioning

confidence: 99%

3-O-ethyl-l-ascorbic acid: Characterisation and investigation of single solvent systems for delivery to the skin

Iliopoulos¹,

Sil

Moore

et al. 2019

International Journal of Pharmaceutics: X

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Section: Introductionmentioning

confidence: 99%

3-O-ethyl-l-ascorbic acid: Characterisation and investigation of single solvent systems for delivery to the skin

Iliopoulos¹,

Sil

Moore

et al. 2019

International Journal of Pharmaceutics: X

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“…The use of anti‐aging cosmetics with vitamin C has increased in the last decade mainly due to their beneficial effects in preventing and minimizing the signs of skin aging 39 . The topical application of cosmetic goods containing 5%‐20% vitamin C promotes facial rejuvenation reducing wrinkles and erythema and increasing skin elasticity in volunteers 40‐42 .…”

Section: Discussionmentioning

confidence: 99%

Topical application of a commercially available formulation of vitamin C stabilized by vitamin E and ferulic acid reduces tissue viability and protein synthesis in ex vivo human normal skin

Romana‐Souza

Silva-Xavier

Monte‐Alto‐Costa

2020

J of Cosmetic Dermatology

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Background Aqueous formulations of vitamin C stabilized by vitamin E and ferulic acid at low pH effectively protect skin against reactive oxygen species‐induced damage. However, the effects of these formulations on human skin have not clearly been described. The aim of this study was to investigate whether topical application of two commercially available formulations of vitamin C alter human skin using an ex vivo model. Methods Human skin explants were topically treated on alternate days with commercially available formulation 1 (15% vitamin C) at 100% (without dilution), 50%, or 10% diluted in saline or formulation 2 (20% vitamin C) at 100% (without dilution), 50%, or 10% diluted in saline. Only saline was applied to control skin explants. Results Topical formulation 1 at 100%, 50%, or 10%, but not formulation 2 at 100%, 50%, or 10%, reduced the viability of ex vivo human skin compared to the control after 7, 10, and 13 days. In addition, compared to the control, ex vivo human skin treated with formulation 1 at 50%, but not formulation 2 at 50%, also decreased mRNA levels of actin and ribosomal protein L10 and gene expression of extracellular matrix components after 10 days. Furthermore, after 10 days, topical application of formulation 1 at 50%, but not formulation 2 at 50%, decreased the protein expression of proliferating cellular nuclear antigen, lysyl oxidase, β‐actin, and glyceraldehyde‐3‐phosphate dehydrogenase compared to the control. Conclusions Topical formulation 1, but not formulation 2, may reduce the viability of and protein synthesis in ex vivo human skin. Those effects might be due to action of vehicle of formulation 1 on ex vivo human skin.

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“…These antioxidants have the ability to slow down the rate of oxidation, but they are not able to convert reactive species to more stable products. This type of antioxidant can chelate pro-oxidants metals and deactivate them, replenish hydrogen to primary antioxidants, deactivate single oxygen, act as scavengers, or absorb UV radiation [77]. According to Esfandi et al [78], there are two main mechanisms by which antioxidant molecules can deactivate free radicals: hydrogen atom transfer (HAT) and single electron transfer (SET).…”

Section: Role Of Hydrolyzed Collagen As An Antioxidant Ingredientmentioning

confidence: 99%

Collagen Hydrolysates for Skin Protection: Oral Administration and Topical Formulation

Aguirre-Cruz¹,

León-López

Cruz-Gómez³

et al. 2020

Antioxidants

131

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Antioxidants are molecules that delay or inhibit the oxidation of other molecules. Its use significantly increased in recent years in the diet of people. Natural antioxidants are replacing the use of synthetic antioxidant ingredients due to their safety, nutritional, and therapeutic values. Hydrolyzed collagen (HC) is a popular ingredient considered to be an antioxidant. This low molecular weight protein has been widely utilized due to its excellent biocompatibility, easy biodegradability, and weak antigenicity. It is a safe cosmetic biomaterial with good moisturizing properties on the skin. The antioxidant properties of HC are conditioned to the size of the molecule: the lower the molecular weight of peptides, the greater the ability to donate an electron or hydrogen to stabilize radicals. The antioxidant capacity of HC is mostly due to the presence of hydrophobic amino acids in the peptide. The exact mechanism of peptides acting as antioxidants is not clearly known but some aromatic amino acids and histidine are reported to play an important role in the antioxidant activity. Oral ingestion of HC increases the levels of collagen-derived peptides in the blood torrent and improves the skin properties such as elasticity, skin moisture, and transepidermal water loss. Additionally, daily intakes of HC protect the skin against UV melasma, enhances the fibroblast production and extracellular matrix of the skin. HC has been identified as a safe cosmetic ingredient for topical formulations with good moisturizing properties at the stratum corneum layer of the skin. It reduces the effects of skin aging (dryness, laxity, and wrinkles). The use of HC as a principal ingredient in safe formulations for skin protection was reviewed and compared when it is used by topical and/or oral administration.

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Evolution of the use of antioxidants in anti‐ageing cosmetics

Cited by 72 publications

References 60 publications

3-O-ethyl-l-ascorbic acid: Characterisation and investigation of single solvent systems for delivery to the skin

3-O-ethyl-l-ascorbic acid: Characterisation and investigation of single solvent systems for delivery to the skin

Topical application of a commercially available formulation of vitamin C stabilized by vitamin E and ferulic acid reduces tissue viability and protein synthesis in ex vivo human normal skin

Collagen Hydrolysates for Skin Protection: Oral Administration and Topical Formulation

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