This paper draws on extensive fieldwork conducted in Central Asia to explore food exports to Russia. It takes its theoretical starting point in global value chain theory and pinpoints chain entry barriers relating to financing, transportation and standards. The paper also proposes rethinking the aspects of territoriality and institutional context, and suggests their integration into one concept, or rather a process of contextualizing territories. In doing so, the paper argues for a methodology that not only examines current events, but also captures change as particularly important in what we term the territory in transition examined here.