Freak Wave Kinematics

Sand, Stig E.; Hansen, N.-E. Ottesen; Klinting, P.; Gudmestad, O T; Sterndorff, M.J.

doi:10.1007/978-94-009-0531-3_34

Cited by 55 publications

(24 citation statements)

References 6 publications

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“…Taking into account that the period of wind-generated waves is close to 10 s, we expect a freak wave event each 8 -9 hours. According to data by Sand et al (1990), maximum height of freak waves is 3H s . The probability of this event is 1.5×10 -8 , or one wave from 67,000,000 waves.…”

Section: Probabilistic Approachmentioning

confidence: 99%

Physical mechanisms of the rogue wave phenomenon

Kharif

Pelinovsky

2003

European Journal of Mechanics - B/Fluids

1,011

764

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Abstract:A review of physical mechanisms of the rogue wave phenomenon is given. The data of marine observations as well as laboratory experiments are briefly discussed. They demonstrate that freak waves may appear in deep and shallow waters. Simple statistical analysis of the rogue wave probability based on the assumption of a Gaussian wave field is reproduced. In the context of water wave theories the probabilistic approach shows that numerical simulations of freak waves should be made for very long times on large spatial domains and large number of realizations. As linear models of freak waves the following mechanisms are considered: dispersion enhancement of transient wave groups, geometrical focusing in basins of variable depth, and wave-current interaction. Taking into account nonlinearity of the water waves, these mechanisms remain valid but should be modified. Also, the influence of the nonlinear modulational instability (BenjaminFeir instability) on the rogue wave occurence is discussed. Specific numerical simulations were performed in the framework of classical nonlinear evolution equations: the nonlinear Schrödinger equation, the Davey -Stewartson system, the Korteweg -de Vries equation, the Kadomtsev -Petviashvili equation, the Zakharov equation, and the fully nonlinear potential equations. Their results show the main features of the physical mechanisms of rogue wave phenomenon.

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Section: Probabilistic Approachmentioning

confidence: 99%

Physical mechanisms of the rogue wave phenomenon

Kharif

Pelinovsky

2003

European Journal of Mechanics - B/Fluids

1,011

764

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“…Several full-scale measurements of extremely large waves have been reported by Kjeldsen [16], Sand et al [29], Skourup et al [30], Yasuda et al [37], and Haver and Andersen [13]. These observations raised the interest in better understanding and identifying the occurrence and the nature of the non-linear interactions of sea gravity waves [4].…”

Section: Introductionmentioning

confidence: 97%

Characteristics of abnormal waves in North Sea storm sea states

Soares

Cherneva

Antão

2003

Applied Ocean Research

116

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“…The existence of rogue waves has been verified only recently by scientific evidence, such as two striking observations in the North Sea: in 1984, a ~ 13-m-high wave was observed at the Gorm Platform (Sand et al, 1990), exceeding the significant wave height by more than a factor of two, and in 1995, the "New Year's Wave" was measured at the Draupner Platform (Taylor et al, 2006) with a trough-to-crest height of 25.6 m in seas of 12 m. In spite of an increasing number of recent rogue wave observations (e.g., Paprota et al, 2003;Dysthe et al, 2008;Didenkulova and Anderson, 2010) and all questionable data were removed.…”

Section: Introductionmentioning

confidence: 99%