Impact de la cristallisation des corps gras sur les propriétés des produits finis

Cansell, Maud

doi:10.1051/ocl.2005.0427

Cited by 9 publications

(4 citation statements)

References 41 publications

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“…We worked using a constant process for all the tests. However, the pouring temperature and the cooling ramp are the predominant criteria in the crystalline structure obtained at the end of the process (Cansell and Talence, 2005). Other parameters may also impact the shininess of a wax-oil blend (Snabre and Habouzit, 2013).…”

Section: Oils Viscosity Pas (20°c) Sensorial Groupmentioning

confidence: 99%

Relations between the sensory properties and fat ingredients of lipsticks

Clermont-Gallerande

Abidh

Lauer

et al. 2018

OCL

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Lipstick is a key product in the make-up sector. A woman applies lipstick to feel feminine and attractive. The sensation she perceives when she applies the product plays an important role in her attachment to her lipstick. The impact of the ingredients on the sensory properties and the quality of the lipsticks needs to be understood, so that the formulation can be more effective and the sensory properties can be precisely adjusted to the target market. During this study, multidimensional correlations were made between the percentage of ingredients, their physico-chemical specifications and the sensory properties of the raw materials on their own or the lipsticks. The objective of this study is to predict the sensory properties of lipsticks from the physico-chemical specifications of the ingredients. It is in effect quicker to access the physical data than the sensory descriptions. The lipsticks were made using a simplified formula, evaluated in a sensory analysis and their physico-chemical characteristics were measured. The relationships between the sensory properties, the ingredient specifications and their percentage of use in the formula were highlighted. The results confirm the major role of the viscosity of oils and the wax used in the formula on the sensory and mechanical properties of the lipstick. It is therefore possible to modify the sensory properties, for example to adjust the shininess of a lipstick, without altering its mechanical resistance. This opens up opportunities for developing innovative sensory textures in short lead times.Résumé -Relations entre les propriétés sensorielles et les ingrédients gras des rouges à lèvres. L'objectif de cette étude est de prédire la sensorialité des rouges à lèvres à partir des spécifications physicochimiques des ingrédients. En effet, les données physiques sont plus rapidement accessibles que les descriptions sensorielles. À partir d'une formule simplifiée, des rouges à lèvres sont formulés, évalués en analyse sensorielle et leurs caractéristiques physico-chimiques sont mesurées. Les relations entre les propriétés sensorielles, les spécifications des ingrédients et leur pourcentage d'introduction dans la formule sont mises en évidence. Les résultats confirment le rôle majeur de la viscosité des huiles et de la cire sélectionnée dans la formule sur les propriétés sensorielles et mécaniques du rouge à lèvres. Il est ainsi possible de modifier des propriétés sensorielles, par exemple, ajuster la brillance d'un rouge à lèvres, sans en changer sa résistance mécanique. Cela ouvre des opportunités pour développer des textures sensoriellement innovantes dans un délai plus restreint.

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Section: Oils Viscosity Pas (20°c) Sensorial Groupmentioning

confidence: 99%

Relations between the sensory properties and fat ingredients of lipsticks

Clermont-Gallerande

Abidh

Lauer

et al. 2018

OCL

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“…En effet, une cristallisation lente favorise l'apparition de cristaux de grande taille (Cansell, 2005). L' etat de dispersion des TAG influe sur la temp erature de d ebut de cristallisation, les propri et es polymorphiques des TAG ainsi que sur le comportement microscopique des cristaux (taille, forme, orientation, position au sein de la gouttelette) (Cansell, 2005 ;Coupland, 2002 ;Lopez et al, 2002). Par rapport a la mati ere grasse en milieu continu, les m ecanismes de nucl eation dus aux impuret es sont diff erents lorsque les TAG sont dispers es dans des gouttelettes d' emulsion.…”

Section: Autres Lipides Structur Es a Applications Alimentairesunclassified

“…Par exemple, la pr esence de lipides polaires dans une matrice continue de mati ere grasse ou une emulsion peut modifier la cristallisation des TAG (Garbolino et al, 2005 ;Toro-Vazquez et al, 2005). La temp erature de cristallisation de la mati ere grasse en emulsion est inf erieure a celle des syst emes continus et donc la proportion de lipides solides a une temp erature donn ee est plus faible (Campbell et al, 2002 ;Cansell, 2005). La taille des gouttelettes d' emulsion influerait egalement sur les propri et es de cristallisation des TAG (Campbell et al, 2002 ;Lopez et al, 2002).…”

Section: Autres Lipides Structur Es a Applications Alimentairesunclassified

Organisation structurale et moléculaire des lipides dans les aliments : impacts possibles sur leur digestion et leur assimilation par l’Homme

Raynal-Ljutovac¹,

Bouvier²,

Gayet³

et al. 2011

OCL

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From the nutrition point of view, lipids are primarily considered as energy suppliers, their dietary intake having to be limited. In fact, lipids are sources of various fatty acids, and dietary recommendations include the required daily intakes in different fatty acids (fatty acid profile). Beyond these quantitative aspects, fatty acids are part of larger molecules, mainly triacylglycerols (TAG), that are organized in supramolecular structures as for example fat crystals and lipid droplets. Recent advances in nutrition research have demonstrated that these structures, and lipid organization in food matrices, influence digestibility and metabolism of fatty acids. Therefore, the members of the technological network Listral propose a synthesis of the knowledge about the influence of molecular and supramolecular structures of lipids on digestion and metabolic fate of dietary fatty acids originating from for the main food industry sectors. Fatty acids are mainly provided in the diet in the form of TAG, or phospholipids (PL) where they are esterified in external (sn-1, sn-3) or internal (sn-2) position of the glycerol backbone. They can also be found as ethyl esters (EE) in specific formulations. These molecular characteristics of the lipid molecules affect their hydrolysis and their absorption rate but also their metabolism in indifferent organs, as assessed in studies often using inter esterified fat sources. The results depend on the types of fatty acids (saturated or polyunsaturated fatty acids) but also on the model used for the studies: in vitro or in vivo studies ; animal model, human newborn or adult, either healthy or exhibiting some diseases. Among others, it was found that the crystal form and fat melting point as affected by the fatty acid profiles and the lipid molecular structures directly impact fatty acid absorption kinetics through modifications of lipolytic enzyme activities. However, in these studies, the relative effect of the thermal properties of lipids and the proportion of saturated fatty acids chains in sn-2 position were hardly distinguished. Supramolecular structures, namely type and size of the fat droplets and their interfacial composition, of lipids, either in their native forms or obtained after food processes, also affect the digestibility and absorption of lipids. This aspect is reviewed with specific focus on dairy, marine, meat, oil plant and egg products. The impact of other nutritional components present in these food matrices on the absorption of lipids is also discussed.

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“…We know from previous studies in food systems that fat structure, especially the structure of fat crystal networks, influences the mechanical properties of the system (Cansell and Talence, ; Marangoni and Narine, ; Narine and Marangoni, ). Based on this knowledge in food systems, we may thus draw two main hypotheses: (1) the slipperiness of lipsticks is associated with the viscosity of oils; (2) the melting perception is determined by the solid fat content (SFC) of the butter.…”

Section: Introductionmentioning

confidence: 99%

The Role of Lipid Composition in the Sensory and Physical Properties of Lipsticks

Abidh

Cuvelier

Clermont-Gallerande³

et al. 2019

J Americ Oil Chem Soc

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The perception of lipstick texture upon application is a key driver of consumer satisfaction. However, formulators may only rely on the absence of knowledge about the relationship between ingredients and product sensory properties. Lipsticks are made of a complex anhydrous mixture that contains about 80% lipids (oils, waxes, and butters). The goal of this work was thus to investigate the combined effect of multiple lipid ingredients on the sensory and physical properties of a cosmetic product such as lipstick. To this end, we first analyzed a typical lipstick formula and its related categories of ingredients. This allowed us to create a simplified, yet realistic lipstick system. Based on this, we formulated 36 lipsticks varying in oil and butter composition according to three mixture designs. All products were evaluated by a panel of sensory experts-with a focus on the slipperiness and melting perception-and analyzed using texture measurements. The physical and sensory results both show that the oils had the strongest impact on the lipstick properties while the impact of the butter was negligible. Moreover, the perceived slipperiness of lipsticks was closely related to the viscosity of the oil mixture present in the formula (R 2 = 0.87). Further analyses of lipstick physicochemical properties by differential scanning calorimetry suggest that the nature and amount of oil influence the crystallization of butter and wax, which could explain the dominant impact of the oils on the sensory and mechanical properties of lipsticks.

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Impact de la cristallisation des corps gras sur les propriétés des produits finis

Cited by 9 publications

References 41 publications

Relations between the sensory properties and fat ingredients of lipsticks

Relations between the sensory properties and fat ingredients of lipsticks

Organisation structurale et moléculaire des lipides dans les aliments : impacts possibles sur leur digestion et leur assimilation par l’Homme

The Role of Lipid Composition in the Sensory and Physical Properties of Lipsticks

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