Relations between the sensory properties and fat ingredients of lipsticks

Abstract

Lipstick is a key product in the make-up sector. A woman applies lipstick to feel feminine and attractive. The sensation she perceives when she applies the product plays an important role in her attachment to her lipstick. The impact of the ingredients on the sensory properties and the quality of the lipsticks needs to be understood, so that the formulation can be more effective and the sensory properties can be precisely adjusted to the target market. During this study, multidimensional correlations were made between the percentage of ingredients, their physico-chemical specifications and the sensory properties of the raw materials on their own or the lipsticks. The objective of this study is to predict the sensory properties of lipsticks from the physico-chemical specifications of the ingredients. It is in effect quicker to access the physical data than the sensory descriptions. The lipsticks were made using a simplified formula, evaluated in a sensory analysis and their physico-chemical characteristics were measured. The relationships between the sensory properties, the ingredient specifications and their percentage of use in the formula were highlighted. The results confirm the major role of the viscosity of oils and the wax used in the formula on the sensory and mechanical properties of the lipstick. It is therefore possible to modify the sensory properties, for example to adjust the shininess of a lipstick, without altering its mechanical resistance. This opens up opportunities for developing innovative sensory textures in short lead times.Résumé -Relations entre les propriétés sensorielles et les ingrédients gras des rouges à lèvres. L'objectif de cette étude est de prédire la sensorialité des rouges à lèvres à partir des spécifications physicochimiques des ingrédients. En effet, les données physiques sont plus rapidement accessibles que les descriptions sensorielles. À partir d'une formule simplifiée, des rouges à lèvres sont formulés, évalués en analyse sensorielle et leurs caractéristiques physico-chimiques sont mesurées. Les relations entre les propriétés sensorielles, les spécifications des ingrédients et leur pourcentage d'introduction dans la formule sont mises en évidence. Les résultats confirment le rôle majeur de la viscosité des huiles et de la cire sélectionnée dans la formule sur les propriétés sensorielles et mécaniques du rouge à lèvres. Il est ainsi possible de modifier des propriétés sensorielles, par exemple, ajuster la brillance d'un rouge à lèvres, sans en changer sa résistance mécanique. Cela ouvre des opportunités pour développer des textures sensoriellement innovantes dans un délai plus restreint.

Effects of perceived quality on consumer attitudes and satisfaction: Focus on lip products

“…The results of this study show usability as the most important factor of for lip products in accordance with the study of Kar et al, 26 who conducted a study on the conditions of ideal lip products. This is consistent with a study by Clermont-Gallerande et al 27 that price factors are important in that lip products have the characteristics of essential materials used in women's daily lives. In this study, design factors of lip products had a negative impact on consumer behavior, suggesting that women, the main consumers of lip products, tend to perceive lip products as essential rather than as a luxury.…”

Comparison between a wax/volatile oil mixture and vegetable butters in a long-lasting make-up formula: A rheological and structural study compared to product performance

“…As the texture of the new formula and the old one (positive control) are also very similar, by impacting the rheological properties, lipids also impact the texture. This again underlines the relationship between sensory properties and fatty ingredients as recently discussed for a lipstick study (de Clermont-Gallerande et al, 2018).…”

Substitution of synthetic waxes by plant-based waxes in lipsticks

“…A classic lipstick is an anhydrous product, mainly made up of waxes (10-20%), oils (40-60%), and fat-pastes (5-10%), forming what is known as the white body. The white body orients the general structure of the lipstick, influencing properties such as hardness, smoothness, softness, and shine (de Clermont-Gallerande et al, 2018). Thus, formulators must adapt the proportions of oils, waxes and pastes, according to the desired finish.…”

“…Indeed, plant-based waxes bring hardness and shine to lipsticks, but are particularly subject to oxidation, rancidity, and polymorphic crystallization, potentiating the risk of exudation. From a sensory point of view, they often have poorer smoothness and softness qualities than petroleum-based waxes (de Clermont-Gallerande et al 2018). This explains why the latter have been so successful.…”

“…The reference, Ethylene/Propylene Copolymer and Synthetic Wax, is a lipophilic polymer, with a high melting point and wide melting range (high enthalpy). Its physicochemical characteristics are the reason for the thermal stability of the sticks (thanks to its high melting point of around 85 °C), of their glossiness, and allows for better hold on the lips (de Clermont-Gallerande et al, 2018). Its nonpolar character demonstrates its ability to establish numerous Van der Waals interactions, which is probably partly the reason for its versatile character.…”