Incidence, mechanism and risk factors for injury in youth rock climbers

Woollings, Kaikanani; McKay, Carly; Kang, Jian; Meeuwisse, Willem; Emery, Carolyn A.

doi:10.1136/bjsports-2014-094067

Cited by 56 publications

(60 citation statements)

References 24 publications

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“…The mean + standard deviation incidence rate of injury from six studies that sampled injuries from indoor climbing environments was 2.83 ± 5.14/1000hrs (3-7, 10). The mean + standard deviation incidence rate of injury from two studies that sampled injuries from indoor and outdoor climbing environments was 2.32 ± 4.00/1000hrs (8,9). The mean + standard deviation incidence rate of injury from two studies that sampled injuries that occurred during competition climbing was 1.92 ± 1.67/1000hrs (5, 7).…”

Section: Incidence Of Injuriesmentioning

confidence: 98%

Incidence, Diagnosis, and Management of Injury in Sport Climbing and Bouldering: A Critical Review

Jones

Schöffl

Johnson

2018

Curr Sports Med Rep

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Section: Incidence Of Injuriesmentioning

confidence: 98%

Incidence, Diagnosis, and Management of Injury in Sport Climbing and Bouldering: A Critical Review

Jones

Schöffl

Johnson

2018

Curr Sports Med Rep

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“…In 2011, Draper et al (2011b) published a paper highlighting such discrepancies and the resultant problems consequently arising for researchers attempting to make comparisons between studies. However, since that paper was published, the non-consistency in reporting has continued (Amca et al, 2012;Morenas Martín et al, 2013;Laffaye et al, 2014;Woollings et al, 2014;Young et al, 2014). The climbers, coaches and researchers present at the 2014 International Rock Climbing Research Congress developed this position statement as a call to all involved in climbing research to follow a consistent method for reporting climber characteristics, nomenclature for ability grouping and to propose the use of one IRCRA scale in all statistical analyses.…”

Section: Introductionmentioning

confidence: 99%

Comparative grading scales, statistical analyses, climber descriptors and ability grouping: International Rock Climbing Research Association position statement

et al. 2015

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The research base for rock climbing has expanded substantially in the past 3 decades as worldwide interest in the sport has grown. An important trigger for the increasing research attention has been the transition of the sport to a competitive as well as recreational activity and the potential inclusion of sport climbing in the Olympic schedule. The International Rock Climbing Research Association (IRCRA) was formed in 2011 to bring together climbers, coaches and researchers to share knowledge and promote collaboration. This position statement was developed during and after the 2 nd IRCRA Congress which was held in Pontresina, in September 2014. The aim of the position statement is to bring greater uniformity to the descriptive and statistical methods used in reporting rock climbing research findings. To date there is a wide variation in the information provided by researchers regarding the climbers' characteristics and also in the approaches employed to convert from climbing grading scales to a numeric scale suitable for statistical analysis. Our paper presents details of recommended standards of reporting that should be used for reporting climber characteristics and provides a universal scale for the conversion of climbing grades to a number system for statistical analysis.

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“…Our survey did not assess the use of preventive taping of the fingers. Nevertheless, the effect of taping remains disputed with contradictory results (Warme & Brooks, 2000;Josephsen et al, 2007;Woollings et al, 2015). Moreover, different exercises are proposed to strengthen the muscles, especially those of the fingers (e.g., practice of different hand grips in a nonweightbearing situation, clinging exercises; Williams et al, 2003).…”

Section: Discussionmentioning

confidence: 99%

Risk factors of hand climbing‐related injuries

Lion

Zwaard

Remillieux³

et al. 2015

Scandinavian Med Sci Sports

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This study aimed to investigate the protective mechanisms or risk factors that can be related to the occurrence of hand climbing-related injuries (CRIH ). CRIH (tendon, pulley, muscle, and joint injuries) were retrospectively screened in 528 adult climbers. The questionnaire contained anthropometric items (e.g., body mass index - BMI), as well as items regarding climbing and basic training activities (warm-up, cool-down and session durations, number of session per week, hydration, practice level, climbing surface, and duration of the cardiovascular training). Higher skilled climbers and climbers with BMI above 21 kg/m(2) were more likely to have experienced CRIH (P < 0.01). Climbers with BMI above 20 kg/m(2) were more likely to have tendon injuries while those with a BMI above 21 kg/m(2) were more likely to have pulley injuries (P < 0.01). Skilled climbers, who climb more difficult routes, may use smaller grip size and a reduced number of fingers. Higher BMI will require a higher force to climb. Both high level and elevated BMI may increase the demands to the hands and fingers leading to CRIH . These risk factors are difficult to address as we cannot recommend the climbers to climb easier routes and decrease their BMI below 20 kg/m(2) .

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Incidence, mechanism and risk factors for injury in youth rock climbers

Cited by 56 publications

References 24 publications

Incidence, Diagnosis, and Management of Injury in Sport Climbing and Bouldering: A Critical Review

Incidence, Diagnosis, and Management of Injury in Sport Climbing and Bouldering: A Critical Review

Comparative grading scales, statistical analyses, climber descriptors and ability grouping: International Rock Climbing Research Association position statement

Risk factors of hand climbing‐related injuries

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