Meristem Plant Cells as a Sustainable Source of Redox Actives for Skin Rejuvenation

Abstract

Recently, aggressive advertisement claimed a “magic role” for plant stem cells in human skin rejuvenation. This review aims to shed light on the scientific background suggesting feasibility of using plant cells as a basis of anti-age cosmetics. When meristem cell cultures obtained from medicinal plants are exposed to appropriate elicitors/stressors (ultraviolet, ultrasound ultraviolet (UV), ultrasonic waves, microbial/insect metabolites, heavy metals, organic toxins, nutrient deprivation, etc.), a protective/adaptive response initiates the biosynthesis of secondary metabolites. Highly bioavailable and biocompatible to human cells, low-molecular weight plant secondary metabolites share structural/functional similarities with human non-protein regulatory hormones, neurotransmitters, pigments, polyamines, amino-/fatty acids. Their redox-regulated biosynthesis triggers in turn plant cell antioxidant and detoxification molecular mechanisms resembling human cell pathways. Easily isolated in relatively large quantities from contaminant-free cell cultures, plant metabolites target skin ageing mechanisms, above all redox imbalance. Perfect modulators of cutaneous oxidative state via direct/indirect antioxidant action, free radical scavenging, UV protection, and transition-metal chelation, they are ideal candidates to restore photochemical/redox/immune/metabolic barriers, gradually deteriorating in the ageing skin. The industrial production of plant meristem cell metabolites is toxicologically and ecologically sustainable for fully “biological” anti-age cosmetics.

In vitro plant tissue culture: means for production of biological active compounds

“…The manipulation of environmental factors, including high/low temperature, drought, UV, alkalinity, salinity, exposure to heavy metals, and others, is now emphasized. These conditions, which are potentially damaging to the plants, often increase the capacity for production or even induce de novo synthesis of secondary metabolites in plant in vitro cultures (Korkina et al 2017;Lajayer et al 2017;Moon et al 2017;Puente-Garza et al 2017b).…”

Secondary Plant Metabolites for Sun Protective Cosmetics: From Pre-Selection to Product Formulation

“…The rate of squalene degradation has been therefore proposed as a feasible parameter to measure the efficacy of sun-protecting formulations [33]. A role for selected plant-derived polyphenols in the modulation of squalene oxidation under UV stimuli is anticipated [7,32].…”

“…A wealth of publications on the photo-protective effects of plant-derived substances, mainly SPMs, have been done during the last two decades due to growing public and medicinal society concern about severe damage associated with solar and artificial UV irradiation [3][4][5]7,65]. Experimental data suggest that a variety of SPMs, mainly, polyphenols extracted from green tea, grape seed, soy beans, or Curcuma longa root, when taken orally or applied topically, do exert chemo-prevention of skin inflammation (erythema and sunburned lesions) followed by a significant decrease in non-malignant and malignant skin tumours derived from exposure to carcinogenic doses of UV [70,71].…”

Anti-aging Effects of Select Botanicals: Scientific Evidence and Current Trends

“…Companies using "plant stem cells" in their products are generally using the extracts from these cells, rather than the cells themselves [95]. These plant-derived metabolites a have high binding affinity in humans and can compete with endogenous ligands, which results in inhibition or induction of metabolic or signal transduction pathways [96]. This use of terminology may be confusing to consumers, who may believe that their cosmetic product is a source of actual renewable stem cells.…”

“…This use of terminology may be confusing to consumers, who may believe that their cosmetic product is a source of actual renewable stem cells. Plant cell culture technologies have been used as a valuable source of plant-based ingredients, specifically for the cultivation of meristem plant cells [96]. This could potentially be a more sustainable method for producing desired metabolites, in particular those occurring in rare plants [96].…”