Non-hydrostatic modelling of infragravity waves under laboratory conditions

Rijnsdorp, Dirk P.; Smit, Pieter; Zijlema, Marcel

doi:10.1016/j.coastaleng.2013.11.011

Cited by 85 publications

(53 citation statements)

References 45 publications

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“…For more reflective conditions, the numerical study of Rijnsdorp et al . [] showed that variations in the bottom friction coefficient significantly affected the nearshore dissipation of infragravity waves. This suggests that the effect of bottom friction is more important for reflective conditions, in line with the findings of this study.…”

Section: Discussionmentioning

confidence: 99%

“…SWASH has been successfully used to study various nearshore processes under laboratory conditions. This includes the nearshore evolution of short waves [ Zijlema et al ., ], the nearshore evolution of infragravity waves [ Rijnsdorp et al ., ], the depth‐induced breaking of short waves [ Smit et al ., ], the nonlinear wave dynamics in the surf zone [ Smit et al ., ], and runup oscillations [ Ruju et al ., ]. Here a brief description of the numerical model is given.…”

Section: Methodsmentioning

confidence: 99%

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Infragravity‐wave dynamics in a barred coastal region, a numerical study

2015

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This paper presents a comprehensive numerical study into the infragravity-wave dynamics at a field site, characterized by a gently sloping barred beach. The nonhydrostatic wave-flow model SWASH was used to simulate the local wavefield for a range of wave conditions (including mild and storm conditions). The extensive spatial coverage of the model allowed us to analyze the infragravity-wave dynamics at spatial scales not often covered before. Overall, the model predicted a wavefield that was representative of the natural conditions, supporting the model application to analyze the wave dynamics. The infragravity-wave field was typically dominated by leaky waves, except near the outer bar where bar-trapped edge waves were observed. Relative contributions of bar-trapped waves peaked during mild conditions, when they explained up to 50% of the infragravity variance. Near the outer bar, the infragravity-wave growth was partly explained by nonlinear energy transfers from short waves. This growth was strongest for mild conditions, and decreased for more energetic conditions when short waves were breaking at the outer bar. Further shoreward, infragravity waves lost most of their energy, due to a combination of nonlinear transfers, bottom friction, and infragravity-wave breaking. Nonlinear transfers were only effective near the inner bar, whereas near the shoreline (where losses were strongest) the dissipation was caused by the combined effect of bottom friction and breaking. This study demonstrated the model's potential to study wave dynamics at field scales not easily covered by in situ observations.

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Section: Discussionmentioning

confidence: 99%

Section: Methodsmentioning

confidence: 99%

Infragravity‐wave dynamics in a barred coastal region, a numerical study

2015

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“…Also, details on the imposition of the boundary conditions can be found in, e.g. Rijnsdorp et al (2014). In this section, a brief outline of some numerical procedures relevant to the surf zone applications is given.…”

Section: Numerical Frameworkmentioning

confidence: 99%

Modelling Vertical Variation of Turbulent Flow Across a Surf Zone Using Swash

Zijlema

2014

Int. Conf. Coastal. Eng.

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This paper presents the application of the open source non-hydrostatic wave-flow model SWASH to propagation of irregular waves in a barred surf zone, and the model results are discussed by comparing against an extensive laboratory data set. This study focus not only on wave transformation in the surf zone, but also on the numerical prediction of undertow and vertical distribution of turbulence levels under broken waves. Present simulations demonstrate the overall predictive capabilities of the model in computing breaking surf zone waves.

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“…Suzuki et al (2011) investigated the applicability of SWASH model for wave transformation and wave overtopping discharge by comparison with new physical model tests, indicating that SWASH model reproduces wave transformation and wave overtopping very well. Rijnsdorp et al (2014) carried out numerical modeling of waves propagating over a plane slope and barred beach laboratory conditions through SWASH. The results when compared to the wave flume observations demonstrate that SWASH can be used to simulate the nearshore evolution of infragravity waves.…”

Section: Introductionmentioning

confidence: 99%