Performing pull-ups with small climbing holds influences grip and biomechanical arm action

Vigouroux, Laurent; Devise, Marine; Cartier, Théo; Aubert, Clément; Berton, Éric

doi:10.1080/02640414.2018.1532546

Cited by 25 publications

(25 citation statements)

References 24 publications

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“…Interestingly, both groups demonstrated a similar utilization rate in the ledge condition relative to the jug condition (57–69% of jug results), suggesting that despite boulder climbers being stronger in the prime movers, both groups are equally limited by finger strength when testing on a smaller hold. These results support previous findings that the hold size and shape is a crucial factor for performance in climbing-specific tests [20].…”

Section: Discussionsupporting

confidence: 92%

“…Therefore, it is generally accepted that finger flexor strength is a crucial factor for performance in climbing and climbing-specific tests [3, 5, 12–21]. For example, Vigouroux et al [20] demonstrated that smaller climbing holds have a negative impact on force and power output in addition to number of pull-ups to failure among elite climbers. To the authors’ knowledge, however, no previous studies have examined the percentage of isometric force generated by the prime movers that can be utilized on a ledge hold (high level of finger strength requirement) compared to a jug hold (very low level of finger strength requirement).…”

Section: Introductionmentioning

confidence: 99%

“…Previous studies comparing lead and boulder climbers have been limited by few test parameters focusing mainly on the finger flexors, and only one study has examined the effect of hold size when performing pull-ups [20]. Thus, a negligible knowledge exists about the upper-body strength characteristics of lead and boulder climbers and the impact of hold type on the utilization of the force generated by the prime movers during climbing-specific tasks.…”

Section: Introductionmentioning

confidence: 99%

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Comparison of climbing-specific strength and endurance between lead and boulder climbers

et al. 2019

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Albeit differences in climbing-specific strength of the forearms have been demonstrated between lead and boulder climbers, little is known about the potential differences in force and power output of the upper body pulling-apparatus between disciplines. The aim of this study was to compare the climbing-specific upper-body strength and finger flexor endurance between lead and boulder climbers, as well as to examine the relative utilization of force when testing on a ledge hold compared to a jug hold. Sixteen boulder climbers (red-point climbing grade 17.9 ± 3.3) and fifteen lead climbers (red-point climbing grade 20.5 ± 3.5) performing on an advanced level volunteered for the study. Peak force, average force and rate of force development (RFD) were measured during an isometric pull-up, average velocity in dynamic pull-up, and finger flexor endurance in an intermittent test to fatigue. The isometric pull-up was performed on a ledge hold (high finger strength requirements) and on a jug hold (very low finger strength requirements). Boulder climbers demonstrated a higher maximal and explosive strength in all strength and power measurements (26.2–52.9%, ES = 0.90–1.12, p = 0.006–0.023), whereas the finger flexor endurance test showed no significant difference between the groups (p = 0.088). Both groups were able to utilize 57–69% of peak force, average force and RFD in the ledge condition compared to the jug condition, but the relative utilization was not different between the groups (p = 0.290–0.996). In conclusion, boulder climbers were stronger and more explosive compared to lead climbers, whereas no differences in finger flexor endurance were observed. Performing climbing-specific tests on a smaller hold appears to limit the force and power output equally between the two groups.

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Section: Discussionsupporting

confidence: 92%

Section: Introductionmentioning

confidence: 99%

Section: Introductionmentioning

confidence: 99%

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Comparison of climbing-specific strength and endurance between lead and boulder climbers

et al. 2019

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“…Although technical and mental factors certainly contribute to climbing outcomes (Baláš et al, 2014;Watts, 2004), it is widely accepted that strength and endurance of the upper-body is the primary predictor for climbing performance (Baláš et al, 2012;Mermier, 2000;Philippe et al, 2012;Quaine et al, 2003;Saul et al, 2019;Vigouroux and Quaine, 2006). Specifically, high levels of maximal and explosive strength of the fingers and forearms, elbow flexors, and shoulder-and back muscles (pulling apparatus) have been identified as significant attributes of highly accomplished climbers (Deyhle et al, 2015;Grant et al, 2001;Laffaye et al, 2014;Levernier and Laffaye, 2019b;Vigouroux et al, 2018).…”

Section: Introductionmentioning

confidence: 99%

Effects of Two vs. Four Weekly Campus Board Training Sessions on Bouldering Performance and Climbing-Specific Tests in Advanced and Elite Climbers

Stien¹,

Pedersen²,

Vereide³

et al. 2021

jsportscimed

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This study examined the effects of two or four weekly campus board training sessions among highly accomplished lead climbers. Sixteen advanced-to-elite climbers were randomly allocated to two (TG2), or four weekly campus board training sessions (TG4), or a control group (CG). All groups continued their normal climbing routines. Pre- and post-intervention measures included bouldering performance, maximal isometric pull-up strength using a shallow rung and a large hold (jug), and maximal reach and moves to failure. Rate of force development (RFD; absolute and 100ms) was calculated in the rung condition. TG4 improved maximal force in the jug condition (effect size (ES) = 0.40, p = 0.043), and absolute RFD more than CG (ES = 2.92, p = 0.025), whereas TG2 improved bouldering performance (ES = 2.59, p = 0.016) and maximal moves to failure on the campus board more than CG (ES = 1.65, p = 0.008). No differences between the training groups were found (p = 0.107–1.000). When merging the training groups, the training improved strength in the rung condition (ES = 0.87, p = 0.002), bouldering performance (ES = 2.37, p = 0.006), maximal reach (ES = 1.66, p = 0.006) and moves to failure (ES = 1.43, p = 0.040) more than CG. In conclusion, a five-week campus board training-block is sufficient for improving climbing-specific attributes among advanced-to-elite climbers. Sessions should be divided over four days to improve RFD or divided over two days to improve bouldering performance, compared to regular climbing training.

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“…Aspek kekuatan dan power tersebut sangat menunjang terhadap kemampuan teknik yang dimilik atlet (Abade et al, 2019;Thiele et al, 2020). Dalam olahraga hockey berbagai macam teknik yang harus dimiliki diantara lain adalah teknik push, tapping, hit, stop, scoop, flick, maupun dribbling (Barth & Nordmann, 2007).Agar semua teknik ini dapat dilakukan dengan baik oleh atlet, maka selain latihan drill yang berfokuskan pada (Prayadi & Rachman, 2013;Vigouroux et al, 2019).…”

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Latihan power otot lengan untuk kecepatan push dalam olahraga hockey

Budiman

Prabowo

2020

JPOE

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Tujuan penelitian ini untuk mengetahui pengaruh latihan power otot lengan terhadapkecepatan push olahraga hockey. Metode penelitian yang digunakan adalah metodeeksperimen dengan desain one group pretest-posttest design. Populasi dalam penelitianini adalah atlet Jalak Harupat Hockey Academy yang terdiri atas 46 orang. Teknikpurposive sampling digunakan dalam pemilihan sampel penelitian, sehingga diperoleh 20orang atlet yang memenuhi kriteria penelitian.Instrumen yang digunakan untukmengetahui kecepatan push menggunakan alat sklz sport radar. Pengolahan datadilakukan dengan menggunakan metode paired sample T-test dalam aplikasi SPSS versi23. Hasil penelitian memperlihatkan nilai sig. 0,0000 > 0,5 yang berarti bahwa latihanpower otot lengan memiliki pengaruh yang signifikan terhadap peningkatan kecepatanpush dalam olahraga hockey. Berdasarkan hasil penelitian ini dapat ditarik kesimpulanbahwa aspek power pada lengan atlet hockey sangatlah berpengaruh terhadap kecepatanpush yang mereka miliki. Karena selain akurat, kecepatan push juga perlu dimiliki olehseorang atlet hockey guna menunjang permainan mereka.

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Performing pull-ups with small climbing holds influences grip and biomechanical arm action

Cited by 25 publications

References 24 publications

Comparison of climbing-specific strength and endurance between lead and boulder climbers

Comparison of climbing-specific strength and endurance between lead and boulder climbers

Effects of Two vs. Four Weekly Campus Board Training Sessions on Bouldering Performance and Climbing-Specific Tests in Advanced and Elite Climbers

Latihan power otot lengan untuk kecepatan push dalam olahraga hockey

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