Radiation stress and low-frequency energy balance within the surf zone: A numerical approach

Ruju, Andrea; Lara, Javier L.; Losada, Íñigo J.

doi:10.1016/j.coastaleng.2012.05.003

Cited by 48 publications

(41 citation statements)

References 47 publications

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“…This breaking was seen to be the consequence of infragravity-infragravity interactions that lead to the steepening of the infragravity waves and the development of ''borelike'' infragravity wave fronts, which become unstable and break. Ruju et al (2012) suggested that both nonlinear energy transfers back to short waves and the breaking of the infragravity wave might each play a part in the observed infragravity wave energy dissipation. In the outer short-wave surf zone, where short-wave frequencies still dominate the water motion, the infragravity waves were predicted to transfer energy back to short waves through triad interactions.…”

Section: Introductionmentioning

confidence: 99%

“…In recent years, a number of studies including field (e.g., Ruessink 1998;Sheremet et al 2002;Henderson et al 2006;Sénéchal et al 2011;Guedes et al 2013;De Bakker et al 2014) and laboratory experiments (e.g., Battjes et al 2004;Van Dongeren et al 2007) as well as numerical modeling (Van Dongeren et al 2007;Ruju et al 2012) have shown that incoming infragravity waves can lose a considerable fraction of their energy close to shore. Henderson et al (2006) and Thomson et al (2006) attributed this energy loss to nonlinear energy transfers from infragravity frequencies back to shortwave frequencies and/or their higher harmonics.…”

Section: Introductionmentioning

confidence: 99%

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Nonlinear Infragravity–Wave Interactions on a Gently Sloping Laboratory Beach

Bakker

Herbers

Smit

et al. 2015

Journal of Physical Oceanography

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A high-resolution dataset of three irregular wave conditions collected on a gently sloping laboratory beach is analyzed to study nonlinear energy transfers involving infragravity frequencies. This study uses bispectral analysis to identify the dominant, nonlinear interactions and estimate energy transfers to investigate energy flows within the spectra. Energy flows are identified by dividing transfers into four types of triad interactions, with triads including one, two, or three infragravity-frequency components, and triad interactions solely between short-wave frequencies. In the shoaling zone, the energy transfers are generally from the spectral peak to its higher harmonics and to infragravity frequencies. While receiving net energy, infragravity waves participate in interactions that spread energy of the short-wave peaks to adjacent frequencies, thereby creating a broader energy spectrum. In the short-wave surf zone, infragravity-infragravity interactions develop, and close to shore, they dominate the interactions. Nonlinear energy fluxes are compared to gradients in total energy flux and are observed to balance nearly completely. Overall, energy losses at both infragravity and short-wave frequencies can largely be explained by a cascade of nonlinear energy transfers to high frequencies (say, f . 1.5 Hz) where the energy is presumably dissipated. Infragravity-infragravity interactions seem to induce higher harmonics that allow for shape transformation of the infragravity wave to asymmetric. The largest decrease in infragravity wave height occurs close to the shore, where infragravity-infragravity interactions dominate and where the infragravity wave is asymmetric, suggesting wave breaking to be the dominant mechanism of infragravity wave dissipation.

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Section: Introductionmentioning

confidence: 99%

Section: Introductionmentioning

confidence: 99%

Nonlinear Infragravity–Wave Interactions on a Gently Sloping Laboratory Beach

Bakker

Herbers

Smit

et al. 2015

Journal of Physical Oceanography

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“…These conditions are not satisfied in our case, in particular just seaward of the swash zone, where the nonlinear parameter is of order 1 for the IG waves. Alternative approaches, such as the one presented in Ruju et al (2012), could therefore be more adapted to analyze further our numerical results. …”

Section: Discussionmentioning

confidence: 99%

“…In particular, the relative importance of the different dissipation mechanisms could be assessed through the computation of the energy balance for the IG waves (e.g. Henderson et al, 2006, Ruju et al 2012). However, it should be noted that the methodology developed by Henderson et al (2006) assumes weakly nonlinear infragravity waves, and that their amplitude is much smaller than the short waves.…”

Section: Discussionmentioning

confidence: 99%

“…These findings were supported by Ruessink et al's field study, who identified infragravity-wave breaking as the most likely dissipation mechanism in the inner surf zone of their very low-sloping beach. Recently, Ruju et al (2012) suggested that, based on a numerical evaluation of the radiation stress, nonlinear energy transfer could be the leading dissipation mechanism in the outter surf zone, while infragravity-wave breaking could occur in the most inner part. However, the exact energy dissipation mechanisms and their relative importance remain unclear.…”

Section: Introductionmentioning

confidence: 99%

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Fully Nonlinear Boussinesq-Type Modelling of Infragravity Wave Transformation Over a Low-Sloping Beach

Tissier

Bonneton

Ruessink

et al. 2012

Int. Conf. Coastal. Eng.

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Recent field studies over low sloping beaches have shown that infragravity waves could dissipate a significant part of their energy in the inner surf zone. This phenomenon and the associated short-and long-wave transformations are not well-understood. In this paper, we assess the ability of the fully nonlinear Boussinesq-type model introduced in Bonneton et al. (2011) to reproduce short and long wave transformation in a case involving a strong infragravity wave dissipation close to the shoreline. This validation study, based on van Dongeren et al. (2008)'s laboratory experiments, suggests that the model is able to predict infragravity wave breaking as well as the complex interactions between short and long waves in the surf zone.

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Infragravity‐wave dynamics in a barred coastal region, a numerical study

2015

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This paper presents a comprehensive numerical study into the infragravity-wave dynamics at a field site, characterized by a gently sloping barred beach. The nonhydrostatic wave-flow model SWASH was used to simulate the local wavefield for a range of wave conditions (including mild and storm conditions). The extensive spatial coverage of the model allowed us to analyze the infragravity-wave dynamics at spatial scales not often covered before. Overall, the model predicted a wavefield that was representative of the natural conditions, supporting the model application to analyze the wave dynamics. The infragravity-wave field was typically dominated by leaky waves, except near the outer bar where bar-trapped edge waves were observed. Relative contributions of bar-trapped waves peaked during mild conditions, when they explained up to 50% of the infragravity variance. Near the outer bar, the infragravity-wave growth was partly explained by nonlinear energy transfers from short waves. This growth was strongest for mild conditions, and decreased for more energetic conditions when short waves were breaking at the outer bar. Further shoreward, infragravity waves lost most of their energy, due to a combination of nonlinear transfers, bottom friction, and infragravity-wave breaking. Nonlinear transfers were only effective near the inner bar, whereas near the shoreline (where losses were strongest) the dissipation was caused by the combined effect of bottom friction and breaking. This study demonstrated the model's potential to study wave dynamics at field scales not easily covered by in situ observations.

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Radiation stress and low-frequency energy balance within the surf zone: A numerical approach

Cited by 48 publications

References 47 publications

Nonlinear Infragravity–Wave Interactions on a Gently Sloping Laboratory Beach

Nonlinear Infragravity–Wave Interactions on a Gently Sloping Laboratory Beach

Fully Nonlinear Boussinesq-Type Modelling of Infragravity Wave Transformation Over a Low-Sloping Beach

Infragravity‐wave dynamics in a barred coastal region, a numerical study

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