Refraction—Diffraction of Irregular Waves over a Mound

Vincent, C.; Briggs, Michael J.

doi:10.1061/(asce)0733-950x(1989)115:2(269)

Cited by 156 publications

(152 citation statements)

References 5 publications

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“…To calculate the transformation of random directional waves over an arbitrary bathymetry including surf zones, we used Kweon et al's (1997) model, which was developed by combining Kweon and Goda's (1996) breaking wave model and Karlsson's (1969) spectral wave refraction model. The model was verified by comparison with Goda's (1975) results for unidirectional random waves on a plane beach and with the experimental data of Vincent and Briggs (1989) for the transformation of random directional waves over a shoal.…”

Section: Introductionmentioning

confidence: 78%

Reflection of irregular waves from perforated-wall caisson breakwaters

Suh

Choi

Kim³

et al. 2001

Coastal Engineering

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Recently Hanzawa et al. developed a reliability design method for the calculation of the expected damage level of armor blocks of a horizontally composite breakwater. In their method, the wave transformation from deepwater to the design site was calculated by assuming unidirectional random waves being normally incident to a straight coast with parallel depth contours. In real situations, however, directional random waves with variable principal wave directions will be incident to the shore of irregular bathymetry. In the present study, the reliability design method of Hanzawa et al. was extended to take into account the variability in wave direction in the computation of wave transformation. The directional variability includes directional spreading of waves, obliquity of the design principal wave direction from the shore-normal direction, and its variation about the design value.Even though the wave incident angle to the breakwater could be calculated, normal incidence was assumed in the calculation of the damage level of armor blocks. It was found that the inclusion of directional variability in the computation of wave transformation had great influence on the computed expected damage level of armor blocks. The previous design, which disregarded wave directionality, could either overestimate or underestimate the expected damage level by a factor of two depending on water depth and seabed slope.

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Section: Introductionmentioning

confidence: 78%

Reflection of irregular waves from perforated-wall caisson breakwaters

Suh

Choi

Kim³

et al. 2001

Coastal Engineering

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“…For instance, the refraction over coastal topography or currents (e.g., Berkhoff et al 1982;Vincent and Briggs 1989;Magne et al 2007;Janssen et al 2008), or diffraction around obstacles such as breakwaters, reefs, or headlands (e.g., Penney and Price 1952), can result in relatively fast variations in wave statistics because of coherent wave interference patterns. The effects of such coherent structures on the wave statistics are not accounted for by the RTE (Vincent and Briggs 1989;O'Reilly and Guza 1991).…”

Section: Introductionmentioning

confidence: 99%

The Evolution of Inhomogeneous Wave Statistics through a Variable Medium

Smit¹,

Janssen²

2013

Journal of Physical Oceanography

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The interaction of ocean waves with variable currents and topography in coastal areas can result in inhomogeneous statistics because of coherent interferences, which affect wave-driven circulation and transport processes. Stochastic wave models, invariably based on some form of the radiative transfer equation (or action balance), do not account for these effects. The present work develops and discusses a generalization of the radiative transfer equation that includes the effects of coherent interferences on wave statistics. Using multiple scales, the study approximates the transport equation for the (complete) second-order wave correlation matrix. The resulting model transports the coupled-mode spectrum (a form of the Wigner distribution) and accounts for the generation and propagation of coherent interferences in a variable medium. The authors validate the model through comparison with analytic solutions and laboratory observations, discuss the differences with the radiative transfer equation and the limitations of this approximation, and illustrate its ability to resolve coherent interference structures in wave fields such as those typically found in refractive focal zones and around obstacles.

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“…Fochesato et al, 2007;Babanin et al, 2011). If combined with shoaling effects, the amplification of the incident waves up to a factor of 2.5 can occur as has been observed in the laboratory (Vincent and Briggs, 1989) and has been reproduced by numerical modelling using spectral wave models (see e.g. Holthuijsen et al, 2003;Roland, 2009).…”

Section: A V Babanin Et Al: Spectral Wave Modelling Of Typhoon Krosamentioning

confidence: 76%

“…Many investigations which used spectral wave models like SWAN or WWM (e.g. Holthuisen et al, 2003;Roland, 2009) could reproduce the wave height distribution for the laboratory experiment of Vincent and Briggs (1989). Mostly, spectral wave models, when at least second-order schemes are used, even overestimate the maximal measured amplification factor compared to the Vincent and Briggs in this case.…”

Section: Resultsmentioning

confidence: 96%

Spectral wave modelling of Typhoon Krosa

Babanin

Hsu

Roland

et al. 2011

Nat. Hazards Earth Syst. Sci.

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Abstract.This paper presents modelling the wave conditions in Typhoon Krosa prior to touching Taiwan in October 2007, with third-generation wave models of SWAN and WWM. The accuracy of the extreme wave measurement H max = 32 m with significant wave height H s ≈ 24 m at the depth of h = 38 m is discussed first. It is concluded that the measurement does not appear faulty and is physically realistic. The numerical results are then analysed in order to examine the models' capability to reproduce the observed conditions. It is found that neither SWAN nor WWMII are able to hindcast the extreme measurement. Series of sensitivity tests are conducted for different numerical and diffraction schemes, and source functions. It is shown that, in the circumstances, the model performance only improves in response to the bottom-limited breaking formulation.

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Refraction—Diffraction of Irregular Waves over a Mound

Cited by 156 publications

References 5 publications

Reflection of irregular waves from perforated-wall caisson breakwaters

Reflection of irregular waves from perforated-wall caisson breakwaters

The Evolution of Inhomogeneous Wave Statistics through a Variable Medium

Spectral wave modelling of Typhoon Krosa

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