Review of the Usability of Cyclodextrin as a Cosmetic Ingredient

Abstract

Skin is the outermost barrier of the body, making it vulnerable to various external stimuli that can directly influence skin aging. To maximize the impact of cosmetics that delay skin aging, the stabilization of cosmetic ingredients is necessary. In addition to microencapsulation, liposome, and liquid crystal methods to increase the bioavailability of cyclodextrin, various studies have been conducted that utilize its structural characteristics to improve its properties of solubility, stability, and sustained release. In the present study, we reviewed previous investigations demonstrating that cyclodextrin enhanced the usefulness of various active ingredients as cosmetics materials based on its structural characteristics. Cyclodextrin inclusion complexes of esculin, hydrogel, coenzyme Q10, and genistein were compared with each non-inclusion material. The results showed that cyclodextrin increased solubility and improved skin permeability. Additionally, cysteinyl β-cyclodextrin, formed by combining a structural unit of the amino acid cysteine with β-cyclodextrin, showed a complexing function specific to the flavonoid baicalein. The strongly hydrophilic cysteine site of the complex improved the dissolution of baicalein in water. Therefore, further studies should investigate the various structure-specific host complexes with different cyclodextrin structure derivatives besides the cysteinyl group to enhance the already verified efficacy of the effective ingredients. Furthermore, it is expected that cyclodextrin will be commercialized as a stabilizing material for active ingredients in the cosmetic industry if clinical studies can prove the effectiveness of the β-cyclodextrin inclusion function in functional cosmetics.

Noncovalent Complexes of Cyclodextrin with Small Organic Molecules: Applications and Insights into Host–Guest Interactions in the Gas Phase and Condensed Phase

“…Their ability to encapsulate guest molecules makes CDs superb agents for commercial cosmetic applications. This trait endows a plethora of advantages to the CD-encapsulated cosmetic product, including improved physical and chemical stability against light and oxidation, more controlled release of volatile compounds and fragrances, increased solubilization of insoluble components, easier removal of unpleasant odors or undesired external smells, a straightforward modification process for the formulation from liquids or oil powder, improved skin penetration capabilities, and slowed release of the active ingredients via the application of nanotechnology or nanosystems [ 70 , 71 , 72 , 73 , 74 ]. Recently, Mori et al reported that the complexation of HP-γ-CD/trans-ferulic acid (t-FA) improved the anti-UV properties of eco-friendly sunscreens and increased the solubility of t-FA, an all-natural UV-absorbing ingredient derived from rice bran [ 75 ].…”

Development of Anti-aging Cosmetics Using Chitosan/ γ-Cyclodextrin/Fucoidan Nanoparticles (Nanogel) Based on the Drug Delivery System

“…나노 입자로 만드는 과정과 제형의 안정화 공정을 감안 하여 다층유화기술을 제형에 적용하였기에 가능한 결과이다 . 또한 CD 포접 복합체는 외부적인 요인으로부터 보호받을 수 있을 뿐만 아니라 산소, 열 빛에 대한 안정성이 강화되고 수용해 도를 증가 시킬 수 있음을 시사한다 (Lee et al, 2019). , 27: 427-435, 2019…”