Rheological and textural characterization of cosmetic emulsions containing natural and synthetic polymers: relationships between both data

Gilbert, Laura; Picard, Céline; Savary, Géraldine; Grisel, Michel

doi:10.1016/j.colsurfa.2013.01.003

Cited by 143 publications

(107 citation statements)

References 19 publications

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“…As observed by Gilbert and colleagues , high values of Pearson coefficient, such as observed in this study (0.9647), indicate a quasi‐perfect prediction of the sensory attribute by instrumental measurement. In this case, consistency (instrument) and fluidity (panel) of the ingredients studied are highly negatively related.…”

Section: Resultssupporting

confidence: 84%

“…Majority of studies investigating instrumental and sensory characteristics indicate that rheological analyses may not be enough to fully predict perceptions of cosmetic products texture . However, rheology and texture analysis performed together proved to be excellent tools for assessing sensory texture attributes of cosmetic emulsions and, consequently, are useful in improving and facilitating raw materials choices to compose cosmetic formulations .…”

Section: Resultsmentioning

confidence: 99%

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Combining sensory and texturometer parameters to characterize different type of cosmetic ingredients

Vieira

Lavarde

Fréville

et al. 2020

Intern J of Cosmetic Sci

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Introduction Sensory properties have a great importance for cosmetics and personal care products. If literature permits to consult articles comparing different formulations on their sensory attributes, there are only a few articles concerning ingredients. Objective The overall objective of this study was to carry out an original study combining the sensory evaluation of different natures of ingredients, in order to initiate a sensory data set that could help researchers to identify differentiating sensory characteristics, as well as initiating a comparison between sensory data and texturometer instrumental measurements. Methods Oils, glycolic extracts, butter and starch were evaluated according to descriptive sensory analysis methodology with the help of panel of 25 experts. In order to compare responses obtained from the panel to instrumental measurements, texture analyzes were performed in compression traction model. Results Significant differences were detected in ten of the eleven evaluated sensory attributes, indicating that ingredients have distinct sensory profiles. The mainly discriminative attributes for the analyzed ingredients were: gloss, opacity, fluidity, freshness, whitening and oily residue. The oils are mostly related to oily residue and slipperiness while extracts are mostly related to gloss, fluidity and freshness attributes. Both Tapioca Starch and Shea Butter were related to non‐fluidity, opacity, and Tapioca Starch was related to freshness too. This study was completed by a texturometer analysis which lead to show the opposite correlation between the sensory attribute fluidity and the consistent index.

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Section: Resultssupporting

confidence: 84%

Section: Resultsmentioning

confidence: 99%

Combining sensory and texturometer parameters to characterize different type of cosmetic ingredients

Vieira

Lavarde

Fréville

et al. 2020

Intern J of Cosmetic Sci

View full text Add to dashboard Cite

show abstract

“…A compression test was performed on products using a Texture Analyzer TA.XT Plus (Stable Micro Systems, Cardiff, UK), as previously described . Measurements were run at room temperature with a load cell of 5 kg, and in triplicate.…”

Section: Methodsmentioning

confidence: 99%

Instrumental and sensory methodologies to characterize the residual film of topical products applied to skin

Savary

Gilbert

Grisel

et al. 2019

Skin Research and Technology

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Background The work is aimed at the development of a methodology to characterize the tactile properties of topical products during application. Specific attention was paid to the study of the residual properties left at the surface of the skin. This approach was interestingly used to better understand the formulation factors governing the skinfeel of topical preparations. Materials and Methods Cosmetic and pharmaceutical topical products were selected based on their various texture, galenic form (gel or emulsion), and composition (polymer used as texturing agent). Key texture attributes namely Firmness, Stickiness, Spreadability, and Amount of residue were objectively evaluated using sensory analysis. Additionally, texture analysis (compression test), rheology (flow test), and tribology (in vivo friction test) were carried out. Results Sensory evaluations highlighted a great diversity of tactile properties among products when applied to skin. For example, assessors perceived an important amount of residue left by emulsions whereas gels were not leaving any residue after application to the skin. These results were confirmed by in vivo tactile friction measurements with two distinct evolutions in time of the residual film properties. Conclusion The present investigation shows how the tactile properties of topical gels and emulsions are studied using complementary tests in order to understand and improve the skinfeel of topical preparations.

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“…These systems start flowing after achieving a yield value and the viscosity of the formulations decrease with increasing shear rate. As it was observed in the studies of Gilbert et al, the formulations with higher yield values showed higher values of viscosity and shear stress than the other formulations (Gilbert et al, 2013). The rheograms of FSA and FC are not shown, because there was been a lack of uniformity in the obtained results.…”

Section: Rheological Analysismentioning

confidence: 62%

Use of solid dispersions to increase stability of dithranol in topical formulations

Estanqueiro

Conceição

Amaral

et al. 2014

Braz. J. Pharm. Sci.

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The present study was planned to improve the stability of dithranol using solid dispersions (SD). Two different SD at a 1:9 ratio of dithranol/excipient were prepared: one of them using glyceryl behenate as excipient and the other using a mixture of argan oil with stearic acid (1:8 ratio) as excipient. Pure dithranol and SD of dithranol were incorporated in an oil-in-water cream and in a hydrophobic ointment in a drug/ dermatological base ratio of 1:10. The physical and mechanical properties of semisolid formulations incorporating the pure drug and the developed SD were evaluated through rheological and textural analysis. To evaluate the stability, L*a*b* color space parameters of SD and semisolid formulations, and pH of hydrophilic formulations were determined at defined times, during one month. Each sample was stored at different conditions namely, light exposure (room temperature), high temperature exposition (37 °C) (protected from light) and protected from light (room temperature). Despite higher values of firmness and adhesiveness, hydrophobic ointment exhibited the best rheological features compared to the oil-in-water cream, namely a shear-thinning behavior and high thixotropy. These formulations have also presented more stability, with minor changes in L*a*b* color space parameters. The results of this study indicate that is possible to conclude that the developed SD contributed to the increased stability of dithranol.Uniterms: Dithranol/stability. Topical formulations/development. Solid dispersions/preparation. Stearic acid. Glyceryl behenate. Argan oil.Este trabalho teve como objetivo aumentar a estabalidade do ditranol através da preparação de dispersões sólidas (DS). Prepararam-se duas DS diferentes em proporção de 1:9 de ditranol/excipiente: em uma das DS utilizou-se beenato de glicerila como excipiente e na outra se utilizou mistura de óleo de argan com ácido esteárico (razão 1:8). Posteriormente, efetuou-se a incorporação de ditranol puro e das DS contendo este fármaco num creme hidrófilo ou óleo-água (O/A) e em pomada hidrófoba, na proporção 1:10 (fármaco ou respetivas DS/base dermatológica). As propriedades físicas e mecânicas das formulações semissólidas incorporando fármaco ou as respetivas DS previamente desenvolvidas, foram avaliadas através da análise do comportamento reológico e das propriedades de textura. Para avaliar a estabilidade, os parâmetros do espaço de cor L*a*b* das DS e das formulações semissólidas e o pH das preparações hidrófilas foram determinados em períodos de tempo definidos, durante um mês para cada amostra armazenada sob diferentes condições, especificamente, exposição à luz (à temperatura ambiente), protegidas da luz à temperatura elevada (37 °C) e protegidas da luz (temperatura ambiente). Embora tenham apresentado valores de firmeza e de adesividade mais elevados, as pomadas hidrófobas apresentaram melhores características reológicas do que os cremes óleo-água. Além disso, as pomadas hidrófobas também apresentaram melhor estabilidade, com pequenas alterações nos parâ...

show abstract

Rheological and textural characterization of cosmetic emulsions containing natural and synthetic polymers: relationships between both data

Cited by 143 publications

References 19 publications

Combining sensory and texturometer parameters to characterize different type of cosmetic ingredients

Combining sensory and texturometer parameters to characterize different type of cosmetic ingredients

Instrumental and sensory methodologies to characterize the residual film of topical products applied to skin

Use of solid dispersions to increase stability of dithranol in topical formulations

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