Screening sunscreens: protecting the biomechanical barrier function of skin from solar ultraviolet radiation damage

Berkey, Christopher; Biniek, Krysta; Dauskardt, Reinhold H.

doi:10.1111/ics.12370

Cited by 12 publications

(16 citation statements)

References 17 publications

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“…2 a). This is consistent with past studies detailing the increase in stress within SC due to UV radiation [ 6 , 12 ]. Since drying stress is fundamentally caused by water loss, which is known to be controlled by the lipid interlayer of the SC [ 16 , 37 , 38 ], it is likely that UV radiation leads to an increased stress in SC by damaging the lipids within the skin allowing a greater volume of water to be lost.…”

Section: Resultssupporting

confidence: 93%

“…However, the sudden increase of peak stress at high UVB dosage in only the OMC treated SC reveals that the photostability of OMC is inferior to that of DOMBM. Additionally, peak stresses observed in DOMBM treated SC are less than those seen in OMC treated skin at all UVB exposure dosages, illustrating the greater degree of UVB protection afforded by DOMBM [ 12 ]. These accelerated damage drying stress measurements indicate that DOMBM is likely a more robust sunscreen molecule at all UVB dosages, even those lower than what was measured here.…”

Section: Resultsmentioning

confidence: 99%

“…UV radiation has deleterious effects on the biomechanical barrier properties of SC, ultimately reducing the SC barrier function and undermining its ability to provide robust physical and chemical protection for the body from the environment [ 5 , 6 , 10 , 11 ]. UV radiation weakens the mechanical stability of the skin by increasing the inherent mechanical stress within the SC that is the driving force behind cracking and chapping, as well as damaging the cohesion energy of the SC (its resistance to cracking and chapping) [ 6 , 12 ]. Consequently, the barrier function of the SC is greatly impaired and more susceptible to further degradation after the biomechanical properties of the SC have been damaged by UV radiation.…”

Section: Introductionmentioning

confidence: 99%

“…In recent publications, we introduced a suite of in vitro thin-film mechanics techniques capable of precisely quantifying the mechanical barrier properties of human SC when exposed to chemical treatments or changes in temperature [ 7 , 8 , [14] , [15] , [16] ]. We have also demonstrated the ability of these techniques to measure the effects of UV radiation on the SC as well as the efficacy of sunscreens in preventing UV damage to the barrier properties of human SC [ 6 , 12 ]. Here we demonstrate the versatility and precision of these techniques by comparing the photostabilities of octyl methoxycinnamate (OMC), a commonly used organic UVB absorbing molecule, and dioctyl 4-methoxybenzylidene malonate (DOMBM), a more novel molecule designed to have a higher photochemical stability for use in commercial sunscreens.…”

Section: Introductionmentioning

confidence: 99%

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Role of sunscreen formulation and photostability to protect the biomechanical barrier function of skin

Berkey

Oguchi

Miyazawa

et al. 2019

Biochemistry and Biophysics Reports

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The impact of sunscreen formulations on the barrier properties of human skin are often overlooked leading to formulations with components whose effects on barrier mechanical integrity are poorly understood. The aim of this study is to demonstrate the relevance of carrier selection and sunscreen photostability when designing sunscreen formulations to protect the biomechanical barrier properties of human stratum corneum (SC) from solar ultraviolet (UV) damage. Biomechanical properties of SC samples were assayed after accelerated UVB damage through measurements of the SC's mechanical stress profile and corneocyte cohesion. A narrowband UVB (305–315 nm) lamp was used to expose SC samples to 5, 30, 125, and 265 J cm −2 in order to magnify damage to the mechanical properties of the tissue and characterize the UV degradation dose response such that effects from smaller UV dosages can be extrapolated. Stresses in the SC decreased when treated with sunscreen components, highlighting their effect on the skin prior to UV exposure. Stresses increased with UVB exposure and in specimens treated with different sunscreens stresses varied dramatically at high UVB dosages. Specimens treated with sunscreen components without UVB exposure exhibited altered corneocyte cohesion. Both sunscreens studied prevented alteration of corneocyte cohesion by low UVB dosages, but differences in protection were observed at higher UVB dosages indicating UV degradation of one sunscreen. These results indicate the protection of individual sunscreen components vary over a range of UVB dosages, and components can even cause alteration of the biomechanical barrier properties of human SC before UV exposure. Therefore, detailed characterization of sunscreen formulation components is required to design robust protection from UV damage.

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Section: Resultssupporting

confidence: 93%

Section: Resultsmentioning

confidence: 99%

Section: Introductionmentioning

confidence: 99%

Section: Introductionmentioning

confidence: 99%

See 2 more Smart Citations

Role of sunscreen formulation and photostability to protect the biomechanical barrier function of skin

Berkey

Oguchi

Miyazawa

et al. 2019

Biochemistry and Biophysics Reports

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show abstract

“…There are three types of UVR produced by the sun that are present in our atmosphere -UVA which has the longest wavelength (320-400nm) and about 95% penetration level through the ozone, followed by UVB (290-320nm) with around 5% penetration level and finally UVC (200-290nm) which is absorbed by the upper layer of the stratosphere [1] . Only UVA and UVB get absorbed by the skin -UVA, which has a longer wavelength is able to penetrate into our dermis layer, while UVB which has a shorter wavelength gets absorbed mainly in the epidermis [2] .…”

Section: Introductionmentioning

confidence: 99%

An Optimized Cosmetic Screening Assay for Ultraviolet B (UVB) Protective Property of Natural Products

Mahendra¹,

Tan²,

Yap³

et al. 2019

Prog Drug Discov Biomed Sci

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In an era where everyone is seeking everlasting youth, preventing photodamage by ultraviolet radiation (UVR) from the sun is of key interest to the cosmetic industry. Inhibiting the production of UVR-mediated reactive oxygen species (ROS) is often the targeted function of cosmetic products, and a suitably reliable model is needed to test this. Hence, the current protocol was designed to effectively analyze the ultraviolet (UV) protective effect of bioactive natural product compounds against photodamage caused by UVR, specifically UVB radiation. Analysis of bioactive compounds that were previously reported to have UV protective properties using this model yielded data that showed the reproducibility and reliability of this model in determining UVB protective properties of the bioactive natural product compounds of interest. Thus, this setup model can be used for future endeavors such as the study of UVB protective properties of other natural products or as a basis of a model for UVA and UVC protective designs. It has potential application in cosmetic studies, as this model can also be developed to be used as a quick screen on potential plant or biological extracts that are to be included in sunscreen formulations or other UV protective cosmetic products, thus reducing cost spent on research and development of new products. It can also be developed further to include studies using 3D skin tissue models, allowing more analysis to be done on any product developed.

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Exploratory evaluation of tolerability, performance, and cosmetic acceptance of dexpanthenol‐containing dermo‐cosmetic wash and sun‐care products for tattoo aftercare

Schmid

Domingues

Nanu³

et al. 2022

Health Science Reports

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Background and Aims Tattoo prevalence has significantly increased over the last decades. Proper tattoo aftercare, such as cleansing, moisturizing, and protection against sunlight, is essential to prevent complications and to keep the beauty of the tattoo. The tolerability, performance, and cosmetic acceptability of two dexpanthenol‐containing dermo‐cosmetic products, a wash and a sun‐care, were investigated on tattooed skin in two separate trials. Methods Two single‐center, exploratory, open‐label cosmetic studies were conducted between August and November 2020 to evaluate the dexpanthenol‐containing dermo‐cosmetic products. In the first study, healthy adults applied the 2.5% dexpanthenol‐containing wash right after their tattoo session daily for 14 consecutive days. In the second study, healthy adults applied the 2.5% dexpanthenol‐containing sun‐care sun protection factor 50+ cream on existing tattoos that were daily exposed to sunlight for 28 consecutive days. Clinical examination by a dermatologist and self‐assessment through subject questionnaires were used to assess the tolerability, acceptance, ease of use, and cosmetic outcomes of both products. Additionally, transepidermal water loss and moisturization assessments were performed to evaluate skin hydration after use of the sun‐care product. Results Both study products were well tolerated, and no product related adverse events were reported during the studies. At least 90% of the study participants appreciated the performance of the dexpanthenol‐containing wash and sun‐care product, including moisturizing properties, relief of unpleasant sensations, and preservation of the cosmetic appearance of the tattoo. For the sun‐care, it was shown that its application supported maintaining the skin barrier of tattooed skin, while keeping it hydrated. Conclusion The 2.5% dexpanthenol‐containing wash and sun‐care products are well tolerated and appreciated by tattooed subjects. Hence, they represent valid options for tattoo aftercare in line with current recommendations and practice.

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Screening sunscreens: protecting the biomechanical barrier function of skin from solar ultraviolet radiation damage

Cited by 12 publications

References 17 publications

Role of sunscreen formulation and photostability to protect the biomechanical barrier function of skin

Role of sunscreen formulation and photostability to protect the biomechanical barrier function of skin

An Optimized Cosmetic Screening Assay for Ultraviolet B (UVB) Protective Property of Natural Products

Exploratory evaluation of tolerability, performance, and cosmetic acceptance of dexpanthenol‐containing dermo‐cosmetic wash and sun‐care products for tattoo aftercare

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