Skincare potential of a sustainable postbiotic extract produced through sugarcane straw fermentation by Saccharomyces cerevisiae

Abstract

Postbiotics are defined as a “preparation of inanimate microorganisms and/or their components that confers a health benefit on the host.” They can be produced by fermentation, using culture media with glucose (carbon source), and lactic acid bacteria of the genus Lactobacillus, and/or yeast, mainly Saccharomyces cerevisiae as fermentative microorganisms. Postbiotics comprise different metabolites, and have important biological properties (antioxidant, anti‐inflammatory, etc.), thus their cosmetic application should be considered. During this work, the postbiotics production was carried out by fermentation with sugarcane straw, as a source of carbon and phenolic compounds, and as a sustainable process to obtain bioactive extracts. For the production of postbiotics, a saccharification process was carried out with cellulase at 55°C for 24 h. Fermentation was performed sequentially after saccharification at 30°C, for 72 h, using S. cerevisiae. The cells‐free extract was characterized regarding its composition, antioxidant activity, and skincare potential. Its use was safe at concentrations below ~20 mg mL−1 (extract's dry weight in deionized water) for keratinocytes and ~ 7.5 mg mL−1 for fibroblasts. It showed antioxidant activity, with ABTS IC50 of 1.88 mg mL−1, and inhibited elastase and tyrosinase activities by 83.4% and 42.4%, respectively, at the maximum concentration tested (20 mg mL−1). In addition, it promoted the production of cytokeratin 14, and demonstrated anti‐inflammatory activity at a concentration of 10 mg mL−1. In the skin microbiota of human volunteers, the extract inhibited Cutibacterium acnes and the Malassezia genus. Shortly, postbiotics were successfully produced using sugarcane straw, and showed bioactive properties that potentiate their use in cosmetic/skincare products.

Elevating Skincare Science: Grape Seed-Extract Encapsulation for Dermatological Care

“…In all cases, HDF cells were shown to be more sensitive to the tested extracts. Similar results had been reported by Duarte et al (2023). We note that negative inhibition values may result from an increase in cellular proliferation (Teixeira et al, 2021), i.e., in these cases, there may have been an over-metabolization of the PrestoBlue TM reagent caused by the samples and, therefore, an emission of fluorescence superior even to the positive controls.…”

“…Comparing the obtained results with the antioxidant activity of two benchmarks, ascorbic acid and butylated hydroxytoluene (BHT), which present IC50 values within 0.04 -0.28 mg.mL -1 range (Duarte et al, 2023), we can conclude that grape seeds are, indeed, a relevant source of antioxidant compounds. Impressively, the GSEs, which are a complex mixture of different compounds, were able to present similar antioxidant capacity to the tested benchmarks, which are pure compounds.…”

“…Comparing both methods, the DPPH assay allowed us to obtain higher antioxidant activity for both GSEs. This is due to the nature of the assays themselves, once the samples were prepared in methanol and therefore only in a methanol-like solvent (like the one used for DPPH) they can present proper antioxidant activity (Duarte et al, 2023;Tournour, 2016).…”

“…Over time, the skin is subjected to ageing, which is induced by both extrinsic/environmental factors (e.g., solar radiation, pollution) and intrinsic/chronological ones (e.g., cellular senescence, increased expression of skin-degrading enzymes), all leading to reduced structural integrity and loss of physiological function (Gu et al, 2020;Kammeyer and Luiten, 2015). Aside from ageing, the skin is also susceptible to a variety of disorders which have been mainly associated with inflammatory states and skin microbiota dysbiosis (Duarte et al, 2023). For example, diseases such as acne vulgaris, atopic dermatitis and psoriasis, which are characterized by inflammatory manifestations (e.g., papules, pustules, flares, peeling, etc), have been Disclaimer/Publisher's Note: The statements, opinions, and data contained in all publications are solely those of the individual author(s) and contributor(s) and not of MDPI and/or the editor(s).…”