The interpretation of wave spectrums in terms of the wind profile instead of the wind measured at a constant height

Pierson, Willard J.

doi:10.1029/jz069i024p05191

Cited by 41 publications

(18 citation statements)

References 24 publications

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“…However, at the same time, the importance of scaling wave growth with the friction velocity u * rather than with a wind speed at a fixed height has been stressed by many authors (Miles, 1959;Kitaigorodski, 1962;Pierson, 1964;Kawai et al, 1977;Toba, 1978;Mitsuyasu and Honda, 1982;Plant, 1982;Komen etal., 1984;Janssen and Komen, 1985;SWAMP, 1985). Nevertheless, wave spectra have often been analysed in terms of a wind speed at a fixed height, which is probably due to lack of reliable wind stress data.…”

Section: Introductionmentioning

confidence: 99%

Friction velocity scaling in wind wave generation

Janssen

Komen

Voogt³

1987

Boundary-Layer Meteorol

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This note is devoted to the problem ofthe appropriate scaling ofparameters relevant for sea waves, such as wave height, peak frequency, duration, and fetch. In the past, the growth of sea waves has often been analysed in terms ofthe wind velocity at a fixed height, despite the fact that many authors have stressed the importance of scaling with the friction velocity. This problem would be immaterial if the ratio between the friction velocity and the wind speed at a fixed height were a constant. There is, however, ample evidence that this ratio increases with wind speed (Smith and Banke, 1975;Smith, 1980), in agreement with dimensional considerations by Chamock (1955) on the friction height. As a result, the scaling problem is an important one. In this note we conjecture that the correct procedure is to scale wave parameters with friction velocity, and we discuss experimental evidence for the correctness of this conjecture. Comparing two independent datasets ('JONSWAP' and 'KNMI'), we find some evidence supporting our ideas. Further confirmation remains desirable, however, and suggestions are made as to how this might be obtained.

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Section: Introductionmentioning

confidence: 99%

Friction velocity scaling in wind wave generation

Janssen

Komen

Voogt³

1987

Boundary-Layer Meteorol

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“…sont dues [26,36] à ce que ces derniers se réfèrent à un vent mesuré à 7,50 m. Or, les plates-formes des navires météorologiques stationnaires, et la plupart de celles des navires météorologiques sélectionnés sont situées à une quinzaine de mètres audessus de l'eau [37].…”

Section: La Houille Blanche / N°2-1970unclassified

Le calcul numérique de l'état de la mer

Gelci¹,

Devillaz²

1970

La Houille Blanche

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“…Here c p is the phase speed of the dominant wave in the sea spectrum ( p denoting spectral peak), U 10 is the mean wind speed at 10 m MSL, u * is the atmospheric friction velocity, and u9 is the angle between the dominant wave and the wind direction. Several sea spectrum models, based on laboratory and field observations and describing mainly the gravity wave range, have been presented throughout the years (e.g., Pierson and Moskowitz 1964;Hasselmann et al 1973;Donelan et al 1985). Some other models describe the short capillary wave range (e.g., Liu and Lin 1982;Plant 1986;Kudryavtsev 1997) or the entire spectrum (e.g., Klotz 1982;Donelan and Pierson 1987;Banner 1990;Plant 2002).…”

Section: Introductionmentioning

confidence: 99%

Evaluation of a Roughness Length Model and Sea Surface Properties with Data from the Baltic Sea

Carlsson

Papadimitrakis

Rutgersson

2010

Journal of Physical Oceanography

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The exchange of momentum between the oceans and atmosphere is important for many atmospheric and oceanic processes and is mainly governed by the roughness of sea surface. The roughness can be expressed by a roughness length z 0 . A roughness length model, based on the concept that z 0 is determined by stochastic wave breaking, is presented. The model performance is evaluated using measurements from the Ö stergarnsholm site, in the Baltic Sea, and pertinent information from other recent investigations. The wave field and the roughness length variations are investigated during various sea state conditions dominated by wind-driven waves. It is found that several parameters, describing the characteristics of the wave field, are dependent on the amount of energy that long waves have relative to the energy of short, wind-driven waves of the sea spectrum (called the swell ratio). The impact of swell ratio on z 0 can explain the discrepancies found in various results among relevant investigations. The roughness length model can well reproduce the observed roughness length.

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The interpretation of wave spectrums in terms of the wind profile instead of the wind measured at a constant height

Cited by 41 publications

References 24 publications

Friction velocity scaling in wind wave generation

Friction velocity scaling in wind wave generation

Le calcul numérique de l'état de la mer

Evaluation of a Roughness Length Model and Sea Surface Properties with Data from the Baltic Sea

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