Grape pomace retains polyphenols in the peels and in the seeds after winemaking, which is indicative of the high valorization potential of this industrial waste. There is strong evidence that phenolics are robust antioxidants and confer photoprotection; thus, it is rational to apply these active compounds from winemaking waste to sunscreens, in order to increase UV protection. Despite the importance of this class of cosmetics to public health, more efficacious strategies are still needed to overcome the problems caused by the photoinstability of some UV filters. The hydroethanolic extract of Vitis vinifera L. grapes was obtained by percolation and then lyophilized. Six formulations were developed: Type I—cosmetic base and UV filters; Type II—cosmetic base and extract; and Type III—cosmetic base, extract and UV filters. Each formulation was prepared in the pHs 5 and 7. The antioxidant activities of the samples were measured by DPPH• and expressed in Trolox® equivalents (TE), and their photostability and in vitro sun protection factor (SPF) were analyzed by diffuse reflectance spectrophotometry. The anti-radical efficiencies observed in the formulations with grape extract were: (II) 590.12 ± 0.01 μmol TE g−1 at pH 5 and 424.51 ± 0.32 μmol TE g−1 at pH 7; (III) 550.88 ± 0.00 μmol TE g−1 at pH 5 and 429.66 ± 0.10 μmol TE g−1, at pH 7, demonstrating that the UV filters, butylmethoxydibenzoyl methane, ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate and ethylhexyl dimethyl 4-aminobenzoic acid had no influence on this effect. The photoprotective efficacy and the photostability of formulation III containing the extract and UV filters at pH 5 suggested that a synergism between the active molecules provided an 81% increase in SPF. Additionally, this was the only sample that maintained a broad spectrum of protection after irradiation. These results confirmed that the grape pomace extract has multifunctional potential for cosmetic use, mainly in sunscreens, granting them superior performance.

In winemaking, a large amount of grape pomace is produced that is rich in polyphenolics and highly beneficial for human health, as phenols are useful for skin ultraviolet (UV) protection. In this investigation, we evaluated the safety and clinical efficacy of a sunscreen system containing a grape pomace extract from Vitis vinifera L. as a bioactive ingredient. The recovery of phenolics in the waste was performed by percolation. Nine emulsions were developed using a factorial design and two were evaluated clinically: Formulation E, containing only UV filters (butylmethoxydibenzoyl methane, ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate and ethylhexyl dimethyl PABA), and F, with the extract at 10.0% w/w + UV filters. The antioxidant activity was determined by the DPPH assay and the in vitro efficacy was established by sun protection factor (SPF) measurements (Labsphere UV-2000S). Clinical tests were performed to determine safety (human repeated insult patch test) and to confirm efficacy (photoprotective effectiveness in participants). The results showed a synergistic effect between the sunscreen system and the extract on UVB protection and antioxidant activity. Both samples were considered safe. Formulation F was 20.59% more efficient in protecting skin against UVB radiation, taking approximately 21% more time to induce erythema compared to the extract-free sample.

The Ginoide Hydrolipodystrophy (GHLD), commonly known as cellulite, occurs in 80-90% of the female population after the puberty period and comes from a metabolic modification in the cutaneous adipose tissue. Caffeine has been used in topical formulations due to its lipolytic action. We studied a nanoemulsion (F3) containing caffeine with two surfactants (oleth-3 and oleth-20) by emulsification method by phase inversion temperature inversion (PIT). The polydispersion indices (PDI) showed the reduced deviation of 0.1. The mean droplet size was ~ 40 nm. The evaluated constant of Ostwald, in the refrigerator condition was the most favorable during the stability test. In the In Raman spectroscopy assay, the caffeine bands found in F3 were compatible with those found in the caffeine solution (1337, 652.5 and 558.2 cm-1). There was no interaction of caffeine anhydrous with other ingredients in nanoemulsion. In the in vitro safety assay the result of 1.4 ranked the F3 as slightly irritating. In the natural membrane, cutaneous permeation test (human skin) permeate concentrations did not exceed the saturation concentration of the PBS buffer (48.96 μg/3 mL). The caffeine solution and F3 permeated statistically equal, but the nanoemulsion visually and sensorially improved the caffeine precipitation.

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Dedico este trabalho aos meus pais, Ademir e Ercilia que, cоm muito carinho е apoio, nãо mediram esforços para qυе еυ chegasse аté esta etapa dе minha vida. AGRADECIMENTOSA Deus por sempre me iluminar e guiar pelos caminhos da vida e nunca me abandonar nos momentos difíceis.Aos meus pais, pelo apoio incondicional, esforço e investimento para que eu chegasse até aqui.À profa. Doutora Elfriede Marianne Bacchi por todos esses anos de orientação e amizade. Pelo voto de confiança e investimento de tempo para minha formação. Aos professores Doutores Edna Tomiko Myiake Kato, Dominique Hermine Fischer ePaulo Chanel Deodato de Freitas pela amizade e companheirismo.Aos meus colegas e amigos de laboratório: Leandro, Guilherme, Flávia, Harry, Bruno, Caio, Thamirys, Ângela, Alexandra, Caroline e Pedro pela ajuda no trabalho diário. À Embrapa Cerrados por ter gentilmente cedido o material vegetalÀ professora Doutora Lígia Ferreira Gomes pelo auxílio na análise das imagens das plantas.À professora Doutora Primavera Borelli, pelo auxilio com as análises hematológicas.Às professoras Doutoras Nilsa Sumie Yamashita Wadt e Maria de Lourdes Kikuchi, pelo auxílio no preparo e leitura das lâminas histológicas.Á professora Doutora Telma Mary Kaneko e o técnico José de Sousa Sobrinho, pela ajuda com a esterilização dos materiais.À professora Doutora Silvia Berlanga de Moraes Barros e aos seus alunos por ceder equipamento de seu laboratório para a realização de análises de quantificação.À professora Doutora Tais Maria Bauab pela colaboração no ensaio de avaliação da atividade anti H.pylori.À professora Doutora Eliana Aparecida Varanda pela colaboração no ensaio de avaliação do potencial de mutagenicidade.À professora doutora Maria Inês Genovese Rodriguez, pela colaboração no ensaio antioxidante.Á professora Ivana Barbosa Suffredini pelo auxilio com a liofilização dos extratos.Ao técnico Roberto de Jesus Honório pela amizade e auxílio durante os experimentos.À Aline Ameni e Mariana Sayuri pelo auxilio nas análises bioquímicas À equipe de funcionários do Biotério do Conjunto das Químicas pela disposição e atenção nos ensaios.Aos funcionários da secretaria de pós-graduação pelos esclarecimentos de dúvidas.À Capes pelo apoio financeiro.À toda minha família pelo incentivo.Enfim, a todos que contribuíram diretamente e indiretamente para a concretização deste trabalho.Muito Obrigado! "E mesmo que meus passos sejam falsos, mesmo que os meus caminhos sejam errados, mesmo que meu jeito de levar a vida te incomode, eu sei quem sou, e sei pelo que devo lutar. Se você acha que meu orgulho é grande, é porque nunca viu o tamanho da minha FÉ!" Diversas espécies de Passifloras já foram estudadas visando as atividades ansiolítica, anti-inflamatória e cicatrizante com ênfase para P. alata Curtis e P. edulis Sims. Entretanto, não se encontraram estudos farmacológicos envolvendo P. setacea D.C e P. tenuifila Killip; os estudos referentes a estas duas espécies restringem-se ao campo agronômico e fitoquímico. No presente trabalho foram estudadas a eficácia e s...