Patchouli oil (Pogostemon cablin Benth.) has potential as an antioxidant and high volatility due to air and light, therefore it needs to be formulated in the form of a microemulsion. This research aims to determine the physical stability and antioxidant microemulsion of patchouli oil with different concentrations of Tween 80 and PEG 400. Microemulsions was prepared with patchouli oil content of 5% along with different concentration of Tween 80: PEG 400 were  F1 (26%: 13%), F2 (13%: 26%) and for F3 (26%: 26%). The patchouli oil microemulsion was tested for physical stability by the cycling test method using a climatic chamber at a temperature of 40 oC ± 2oC and 4 oC ± 2oC  for 6 cycles. Furthermore, the tests include organoleptic, homogeneity, viscosity, pH, and separation. The antioxidant test was carried out using the DPPH method, and the quantitative data on physical stability and antioxidants were analyzed by a t-dependent test. The stability test results showed that F2 and F3 had decreased viscosity after 6 storage cycles (p <0.05). The results of the homogeneity, pH and separation tests did not experience significant differences. The test results of patchouli oil microemulsion antioxidant activity showed no change in antioxidant activity during 6 storage cycles with the mean inhibition percent before and after the cycling test was  73,13 ± 0,38 %.  Patchouli oil microemulsion with tween 80: PEG 400 26%: 13% showed the most stable physical quality and antioxidant properties.Keywords : Microemulsion, Patchouli Oil, Physical Stability, AntioxidantsMinyak nilam (Pogostemon cablin Benth.) berpotensi sebagai antioksidan dan memiliki laju volatilitas tinggi akibat udara dan cahaya sehingga perlu diformulasikan dalam bentuk mikroemulsi. Penelitian ini bertujuan untuk mengetahui stabilitas fisik dan antioksidan mikroemulsi minyak nilam dengan variasi konsentrasi tween 80 dan PEG 400. Mikroemulsi dibuat dengan kadar minyak nilam 5% dan variasi konsentrasi campuran tween 80:PEG 400 adalah  untuk F1 (26%:13%) dan F2 (13%:26%) serta untuk F3 (26%:26%). Mikroemulsi minyak nilam diuji stabilitas fisik dengan metode cycling test menggunakan climatic chamber pada suhu 40 oC ± 2oC dan 4 oC ± 2oC selama 6 siklus. Pengujian meliputi organoleptis, homogenitas, viskositas, pH, dan uji pemisahan. Uji antioksidan dilakukan menggunakan metode DPPH. Data kuantitatif dari stabilitas fisik dan antioksidan dianalisis dengan uji t-dependent. Hasil uji stabilitas menunjukkan F2 dan F3 mengalami penurunan viskositas setelah 6 siklus penyimpanan (p < 0,05). Hasil uji homogenitas,pH dan uji pemisahan tidak mengalami perbedaan bermakna. Hasil uji aktivitas antioksidan mikroemulsi minyak nilam menunjukkan tidak terjadi perubahan aktivitas antioksidan selama 6 siklus penyimpanan dengan rerata persen inhibisi sebelum dan sesudah cycling test adalah 73,13 ± 0,38 %. Mikroemulsi minyak nilam F1 dengan tween 80: PEG 400 26%:13% menunjukkan Mutu fisik dan sifat antioksidan yang paling stabil.Kata kunci : Mikroemulsi, Minyak Nilam, Stabilitas Fisik, Antioksidan

ABSTRACT Skin damage caused by free radicals disturbs the health of human skin that needs protection. Soybean extract showed that its SPF value was 6,93 on concentration of 0,5%. The purpose of this study was to determine the effect of variation concentrations of Soybean Seed Ethanol Extract (SSEE) on spray gel characteristic and sunscreen activity in vitro. Soybean seeds were extracted by maceration method using 96% ethanol solvent. Extracts obtained were made into spray gel preparation with variations of SSEE concentration were 2% (F1), 4% (F2), 6% (F3). SSEE spray gel was tested for organoleptic, homogeneity, pH, viscosity, spraying pattern and sunscreen activity test. Data from organoleptic, homogeneity, viscosity, pH and spray patterns and sunscreen activity were analyzed descriptively while viscosity was analyzed using linear regression. The spray gels were homogenous with thick texture, and brownish yellow color also distinctive aroma of soybean seeds. Based on the test results, variations concentrations of SSEE did not affect the spray gel characteristics except the viscosity that decreased. Sunscreen activity test showed that SPF values were 13.82 (F1), 13.96 (F2) and 14.54 (F3) included maximal protection. Keywords: soybeans, sunscreen, spray gel, in vitro

Nutmeg oil contains of α-pinene that can be used as sunscreen but it is thermolable. It is necessary to form a microemulsion system for nutmeg oil. This study was to determine in vitro SPF value by and irritation index from nutmeg oil in microemulsion system with Tween 80-ethanol as surfactant and cosurfactant. The system were made with 6.4 % of nutmeg oil and Tween 80-ethanol as with concentrations of 45% (F1), 50% (F2), 55% (F3). The nutmeg oil microemulsion was determined SPF value using spectrophotometer UV. The irritation test was done by the patch test method on rabbit skin with 4 groups of negative control, F1, F2, and F3. The skin was observed at 24, 48 and 72 hours. Quantitative data were analyzed using one way Anova while irritation test data were described descriptively. The results of the sunscreen activity on nutmeg oil microemulsion for F1, F2 and F3 were 8,9 ± 0,12; 9,2 ± 0,51; and 9,3 ± 0,32 (p > 0,05). This SPF value were categorized in maximum protection. The primary irritation index values for F1, F2 and F3 were 0,1±1; 0,3±2,5; 0,1±0; so it can be concluded that microemulsion of nutmeg oil were very mildly irritating.Keywords: irritation, microemulsion, nutmeg seed oil, sunscreen activity

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Nutmeg seed oil is one of essential oil which unstable in storage. The stability of nutmeg seed oil can be improved by being formulated into an emulgel with carbopol 940. This study was to determine the physical stability and SPF value of nutmeg oil emulgel in vitro with carbopol 940 as a gel base. Nutmeg seed oil emulgel was made with 10% nutmeg seed oil concentration and variation of carbopol 940 base, namely 0.60% (FI), 0.80% (FII), and 1.0% (FIII). Nutmeg seed oil emulgel was tested for physical stability including organoleptic, homogeneity, adhesion, dispersibility, viscosity, pH, and SPF value in vitro. Evaluation of physical stability and SPF value of nutmeg oil emulgel was carried out for 30 days of storage at 30±2°C with RH 65±5%. Quantitative data from evaluation of physical stability and SPF value were analyzed by t-test dependent. All the physical parameters showed no significant changes (p > 0.05). Emulgel were white, thick, with nutmeg seed oil odor. pH were in safe range for skin (6.12-6.90). Nutmeg seed oil emulgel had pseudo plastic rheology in day 0 and it changed into pseudoplastic-tixothropic on day 30.  The SPF value of nutmeg seed oil emulgel FI, FII, and FIII were above 8 and it did not showed significant change after 30 days of storage (p > 0.05). The SPF value of nutmeg seed oil emulgel were categorized as maximum protection.