This systematic review examined use of Lamb and Kallal’s (1992) Functional, Expressive, and Aesthetic (FEA) Consumer Needs Model and integrated Apparel Design (AD) Framework within scholarly journal publications. The 126 peer-reviewed articles citing Lamb and Kallal published in English between 1992 and 2017 were the focus of this article. We identify the breadth of citations across the 25-year time span, examine application of the FEA Model and/or the AD Framework, and identify and confirm use of the FEA Model as a theoretical framework. Authors used the consumer needs focus to assess FEA criteria for products targeted to various consumer groups and product types. Findings indicate that the FEA Model has been applied under a variety of conditions to understand consumer needs, inform the design process, confirm the utility of the model, and demonstrate the strength and flexibility of the FEA Model. Future research directions are suggested.

Prosthetic limbs have historically been intended for replacing loss, and as a result, are usually functional or naturalistic in design. The basic, or "functional," prosthesis meets the rudimentary operational needs of the user. A naturalistic prosthetic limb, or cosmesis, is focused on discretion, thereby disguising limb loss. However, a new type of artificial limb is appearing in the marketplace. These prostheses differ from the traditional designs, in that they solicit attention and express the personal style and self-concept of the individual with limb loss or absence. Based on the Lamb and Kallal (1992) FEA Consumer Needs Model, these prostheses fulfill the expressive needs of prosthetic limb users, which have historically been overlooked. This article explores the current literature in order to establish a context for what will be designated expressive prostheses. The analysis will begin by reviewing recent scholarship on prosthetic limbs. Since there is limited relevant research on prosthesis design and appearance, related literature from disability studies and fashion studies will be integrated. This expanded literature analysis will provide a larger framework with which to situate expressive prostheses within the existing body of knowledge. Attention will be focused on scholarship related to social psychology, including models of disability and appearance management. In addition, the authors will draw inferences and propose interpretations for the meaning and significance of these prostheses.

Purpose -The purpose of this paper is to investigate the effect of laundering on the drape, shear, and bending properties of bottom weight fabrics. Design/methodology/approach -Six bottom-weight 100 percent cotton fabrics were included. Collier's Drape Tester was utilized to obtain drape values. Bending and shear values were measured on the KES-F Shear Tester and the Pure Bending Tester. Three laundering cycles (unlaundered, one and five home launderings) following AATCC methods were explored. Findings -Laundry cycle did not have a significant effect on fabric drape, shear or bending properties. However, drape values increased overall, while shear and bending modulus and hysteresis decreased, resulting in a more drapable, pliable fabric after five laundry cycles. Research limitations/implications -Future research examining a wider variety of fabrics and conducting a greater number of laundry cycles to approximate an average yearly number of laundry cycles is recommended. An expansion of this preliminary study should give more conclusive evidence of the trends observed. Originality/value -Objective measurement of drape and fabric mechanical properties related to drape after laundry treatments would assist the apparel manufacturer in developing laundry recommendations based on the fabric's performance and in selecting fabrics which maintain their drape characteristics, mechanical properties, and dimensional stability with use. Higher quality garments with increased consumer satisfaction would result.

No abstract

Grain alignment: effects on fabric and drape 273 incorrectly (off-grain) in the marker may precipitate undesirable garment drape (Moore, 1992).Researchers have been concerned with assessing the behaviour of draped fabrics for a number of years. Previous drape research has concentrated on the development of quantitative drape evaluation methods (Chu et al., 1950), the correlation of these drape values with fabric mechanical properties thought to influence drape (