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Spent coffee grounds and green coffee defective beans, which are industrial sub-products of coffee processing, have a potential use for cosmetic applications, due to their safety and high content in lipids that present interesting physicochemical properties. Sunscreen formulations in the form of water-in-oil emulsions might be a suitable application for these sub-products because providing a higher sun protection factor (SPF) for the same concentration of sunscreen activities than oil-in-water emulsions. The purpose of this work was to assess the biological effects of using the oil fraction of spent coffee grounds extracted with supercritical CO 2 and green coffee oil in the development of new generation of sunscreens with improved sun protection performance. The oil fractions were used to prepare w/o sunscreens involving a cold emulsification process, with purified water as disperse aqueous phase and TiO 2 and ZnO particles as stabilizers. The sunscreens were characterized in terms of mechanical, rheological and skin adhesion properties. In addition, the in vitro and in vivo biological properties of the formulations were evaluated, including safety and sunscreen water resistance tests. The use of two types of solid particles proved to be useful in the developed formulations, ensuring a high SPF with UVB/A protection, conferred by TiO 2 and ZnO, respectively. Moreover, the emulsion containing 35% w/w of the spent coffee grounds oil fraction presented promising characteristics in the improvement of water performance with a broad spectrum sun protection when compared to an emulsion containing 35% w/w of green coffee oil which improved the SPF in physical sunscreens. The formulations are industrial-scalable and suitable for topical use according to the rheological, mechanical and safety assessment. The use of spent coffee oil in cosmetic industry seems to be a suitable approach for the valorisation of waste from the coffee industry and presents promising characteristics in the improvement of sunscreen performance.

Spent coffee grounds (SCG), which are the residue obtained from the treatment of coffee with hot water or steam, can be used for industrial applications, due to the high content in lipids. The cosmetic products might be a suitable application for these types of residues because the barrier properties of the stratum corneum (SC) are largely dependent on the intactness of the lipid lamellae that surrounds the corneocytes. The purpose of this work was to assess the feasibility of using the lipid fraction of SCG extracted with supercritical carbon dioxide in the development of new cosmetic formulations with improved skin lipids (sebum) and hydration. The use of spent coffee lipid extract in cosmetic industry seems to be a suitable approach to recycle the wastes from coffee industry. Emulsion containing 10% of the lipid fraction of SCG (SpentCofOil cream) presented promising characteristics in the improvement of sebum skin levels with a good acceptance by consumers when compared to an emulsion containing 10% w/w of green coffee oil (GreenCofOil cream) and a placebo without coffee oil (NoCofOil cream).Practical applications: In this work, the authors develop and characterize a cream containing 10% of the lipid fraction of SCG extracted with supercritical carbon dioxide with improved skin lipids (sebum) and hydration.

Ethyl ferulate (FAEE) has been widely studied due to its beneficial heath properties and, when incorporated in creams, shows a high sun protection capacity. Here we aimed to compare FAEE and its precursor, ferulic acid (FA), as free radical scavengers, inhibitors of oxidants produced by leukocytes and the alterations in rheological properties when incorporated in emulsion based creams. The cell-free antiradical capacity of FAEE was decreased compared to FA. However, FAEE was more effective regarding the scavenging of reactive oxygen species produced by activated leukocytes. Stress and frequency sweep tests showed that the formulations are more elastic than viscous. The viscoelastic features of the formulations were confirmed in the creep and recovery assay and showed that the FAEE formulation was less susceptive to deformation. Liberation experiments showed that the rate of FAEE release from the emulsion was slower compared to FA. In conclusion, FAEE is more effective than FA as a potential inhibitor of oxidative damage produced by oxidants generated by leukocytes. The rheological alterations caused OPEN ACCESSMolecules 2014, 19 8125 by the addition of FAEE are indicative of lower spreadability, which could be useful for formulations used in restricted areas of the skin.

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