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Oral absorption is a key element for safety assessments of cosmetic ingredients, including hair dye molecules. Reliable in vitro methods are needed since the European Union has banned the use of animals for the testing of cosmetic ingredients. Caco-2 cells were used to measure the intestinal permeability characteristics (Papp) of 14 aromatic amine hair dye molecules with varying chemical structures, and the data were compared with historical in vivo oral absorption rat data. The majority of the hair dyes exhibited Papp values that indicated good in vivo absorption. The moderate to high oral absorption findings, i.e. ≥60%, were confirmed in in vivo rat studies. Moreover, the compound with a very low Papp value (APB: 3-((9,10-dihydro-9,10-dioxo-4-(methylamino)-1-anthracenyl)amino)-N,N-dimethyl-N-propyl-1-propanaminium) was poorly absorbed in vivo as well (5% of the dose). This data set suggests that the Caco-2 cell model is a reliable in vitro tool for the determination of the intestinal absorption of aromatic amines with diverse chemical structures. When used in combination with other in vitro assays for metabolism and skin penetration, the Caco-2 model can contribute to the prediction and mechanistic interpretation of the absorption, metabolism and elimination properties of cosmetic ingredients without the use of animals.

Partition (K) and diffusion (D) coefficients are important to measure for the modelling of skin penetration of chemicals through the stratum corneum (SC). We compared the feasibility of three protocols for the testing of 50 chemicals in our main studies, using three cosmetics‐relevant model chemicals with a wide range of logP values. Protocol 1: SC concentration‐depth profile using tape‐stripping (measures KSC/v and DSC/HSC 2, where HSC is the SC thickness); Protocol 2A: incubation of isolated SC with chemical (direct measurement of KSC/v only) and Protocol 2B: diffusion through isolated SC mounted on a Franz cell (measures KSC/v and DSC/HSC 2, and is based on Fick's laws). KSC/v values for caffeine and resorcinol using Protocol 1 and 2B were within 30% of each other, values using Protocol 2A were ~two‐fold higher, and all values were within 10‐fold of each other. Only indirect determination of KSC/v by Protocol 2B was different from the direct measurement of KSC/v by Protocol 2A and Protocol 1 for 7‐EC. The variability of KSC/v for all three chemicals using Protocol 2B was higher compared to Protocol 1 and 2A. DSC/HSC 2 values for the three chemicals were of the same order of magnitude using all three protocols. Additionally, using Protocol 1, there was very little difference between parameters measured in pig and human SC. In conclusion, KSC/v, and DSC values were comparable using different methods. Pig skin might be a good surrogate for human skin for the three chemicals tested. Copyright © 2017 The Authors Journal of Applied Toxicology published by John Wiley & Sons Ltd.

Approaches to assess the role of absorption, metabolism and excretion of cosmetic ingredients that are based on the integration of different in vitro data are important for their safety assessment, specifically as it offers an opportunity to refine that safety assessment. In order to estimate systemic exposure (AUC) to aromatic amine hair dyes following typical product application conditions, skin penetration and epidermal and systemic metabolic conversion of the parent compound was assessed in human skin explants and human keratinocyte (HaCaT) and hepatocyte cultures. To estimate the amount of the aromatic amine that can reach the general circulation unchanged after passage through the skin the following toxicokinetically relevant parameters were applied: a) Michaelis-Menten kinetics to quantify the epidermal metabolism; b) the estimated keratinocyte cell abundance in the viable epidermis; c) the skin penetration rate; d) the calculated Mean Residence Time in the viable epidermis; e) the viable epidermis thickness and f) the skin permeability coefficient. In a next step, in vitro hepatocyte Km and Vmax values and whole liver mass and cell abundance were used to calculate the scaled intrinsic clearance, which was combined with liver blood flow and fraction of compound unbound in the blood to give hepatic clearance. The systemic exposure in the general circulation (AUC) was extrapolated using internal dose and hepatic clearance, and Cmax was extrapolated (conservative overestimation) using internal dose and volume of distribution, indicating that appropriate toxicokinetic information can be generated based solely on in vitro data. For the hair dye, p-phenylenediamine, these data were found to be in the same order of magnitude as those published for human volunteers.