No abstract

The authors of this study explored (a) body-to-pattern measurement and shape relationships in trouser patterns drafted by two methods; (b) the consistency of these body-to-pattern relationships between methods and between differently shaped bodies within methods; (c) the patternmaking procedures that cause these outcomes; and (d) how these findings impact garment fit, particularly for mass customization. Body-to-pattern measurement and shape relationships were inconsistent between and within methods, making them unsuitable for use in computer-aided custom patternmaking. Most strikingly, pattern crotch shapes were similar within each method, despite the fact that form crotch shapes were different. Patternmaking procedures causing these inconsistencies include (a) use of proportion of noncorresponding body measurements; (b) use of standard, rather than body, measurements; (c) variations in ease as proportions or standard amounts; (d) trueing, blending, and connecting steps; (e) variation between methods of measurements used, in use of proportions or standard measurements, and in steps; and (h) disregard of body shape.

To develop an understanding of consumers' evaluations of their Rent the Runway (RTR) experiences, their online reviews were systematically sampled and saved as screen shots. Content analysis was conducted in two stages: (a) analysis of 201 reviews to develop the coding scheme and (b) data collection and analysis from an additional 600 reviews. Insights into RTR's strategies for overcoming the challenges associated with online apparel sales were yielded. These may provide direction for other apparel companies. When planning their product offerings, online apparel rental companies should consider the most important apparel evaluative criteria found for RTR reviewers: (a) fit, (b) garment style and design elements, (c) social feedback, and (d) appropriateness. Companies may (a) adopt RTR's unique e-service, shipping two sizes of the same dress; and (b) encourage reviewers to include more self-descriptive and dress-descriptive information in their reviews, both of which seemed to alleviate online shopping fit concerns.

Garment development is an iterative process centred on patternmaking to resolve fit and production problems. Each time a sample garment is revised adds time and expense to garment development. Understanding the relationships among garment fit variables is essential to advancing the process of garment development especially with respect to programming computer-aided patternmaking systems accurately. Fit experts utilise their practical knowledge, but it is generally unrecorded, while patternmaking texts provide information on body-to-pattern variable relationships that is not well documented. Building patternmaking theory can ground the practice and lead to a better understanding of body-to-pattern relationships. This study compared published patternmaking specifications for ease, shaping devices and crotch curve shape against pants' patterns custom-fit by experts for seven female participants of similar body size and age representing purposefully selected body shapes. In contrast to the singular directive specifications in the patternmaking texts, variation was required for all cases to achieve acceptable fit, with some variations related to body shape.

Purpose -To evaluate current apparel industry Misses grading practices in providing good fit and propose grading practices to improve fit. Design/methodology/approach -Participants representing Misses sizes 6-20 based on ASTM D 5585 were selected. The fit of garments from traditionally graded patterns was assessed. Garments were fit-to-shape on participants. Traditionally graded patterns were compared to fit-to-shape patterns using quantitative and qualitative visual analysis. Findings -Current apparel industry grading practices do not provide good fit for consumers. The greatest variation between the traditionally graded patterns and the fit-to-shape patterns occurred between sizes 14 and 16. For size 16 and up, neck and armscye circumferences were too large and bust dart intakes were too small. Research limitations/implications -This study was limited to a sheath dress in Misses sizes 6-20. Future research should assess the fit of garments from traditionally graded patterns for other size ranges. Practical implications -Multiple fit modes are needed in a range of more than five sizes. The fit model should be at the middle of a sizing group that does not range more than two sizes up or down. Originality/value -There are few studies on apparel grading that test fit of actual garments on the body. The analysis documents the real growth of the body across the size range and suggests that changes in body measurements and shape determine the fit of a garment. These findings impact future research in apparel and the practices of apparel manufacturers.