Optimized pattern grading

Bye, Elizabeth; LaBat, Karen L.; McKinney, Ellen; Kim, Dong-Eun

doi:10.1108/09556220810850469

Cited by 36 publications

(27 citation statements)

References 7 publications

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“…Patterns that produce a well-fitting garment require attention to both body measurements and shapes (Hulme 1949, Ashdown et al 2003, Loker et al 2005, Bye et al 2008, Just-style.com 2010. Most patternmaking literature uses body measurements to specify pattern development for basic pant blocks and does not consider variations in specifications based on body shape.…”

Section: Relationship To Crotch Shape Categoriesmentioning

confidence: 99%

“…Front darts ended at a range of points above and below the abdomen. Visual analysis (Bye et al 2008) of the layered crotch curves and patterns was completed to evaluate the relationship between body shape and dart length. Although some front darts ended below the abdomen landmark, they all ended before the body began to curve back inward under the abdomen.…”

Section: Dart Lengthmentioning

confidence: 99%

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Building patternmaking theory: a case study of published patternmaking practices for pants

McKinney

Bye

LaBat

2012

International Journal of Fashion Design, Technology and Educati

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Garment development is an iterative process centred on patternmaking to resolve fit and production problems. Each time a sample garment is revised adds time and expense to garment development. Understanding the relationships among garment fit variables is essential to advancing the process of garment development especially with respect to programming computer-aided patternmaking systems accurately. Fit experts utilise their practical knowledge, but it is generally unrecorded, while patternmaking texts provide information on body-to-pattern variable relationships that is not well documented. Building patternmaking theory can ground the practice and lead to a better understanding of body-to-pattern relationships. This study compared published patternmaking specifications for ease, shaping devices and crotch curve shape against pants' patterns custom-fit by experts for seven female participants of similar body size and age representing purposefully selected body shapes. In contrast to the singular directive specifications in the patternmaking texts, variation was required for all cases to achieve acceptable fit, with some variations related to body shape.

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Section: Relationship To Crotch Shape Categoriesmentioning

confidence: 99%

Section: Dart Lengthmentioning

confidence: 99%

Building patternmaking theory: a case study of published patternmaking practices for pants

McKinney

Bye

LaBat

2012

International Journal of Fashion Design, Technology and Educati

Self Cite

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“…Studies carried out in UK [29] and Germany [6], show a 60% and 50% respectively of customers with difficulty to find proper clothes. In the same way, an anthropometric study performed in USA [9] to update the sizing ASTM standards also concluded that a 54% of the population was not satisfied with the fitting of the ready to wear (RTW) cloth [3]. Additionally, from the technological point of view, new 3D body scanning techniques constitute a step forward in the way of conducting and analyzing anthropometric data and contribute to promote new anthropometric surveys.…”

Section: Introductionmentioning

confidence: 99%

“…Apparel sizing using trimmed PAM and OWA operators M. V. Ibáñez (1) , G. Vinué (2) , S. Alemany (3) , A. Simó (1) , I. Epifanio (1) , J. Domingo (4) …”

mentioning

confidence: 99%

Apparel sizing using trimmed PAM and OWA operators

Ibáñez

Vinué

Alemany

et al. 2012

Expert Systems with Applications

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This paper is concerned with apparel sizing system design. One of the most important issues in the apparel development process is to define a sizing system that provides a good fit to the majority of the population. A sizing system classifies a specific population into homogeneous subgroups based on some key body dimensions. Standard sizing systems range linearly from very small to very large. However, anthropometric measures do not grow linearly with size, so they can not accommodate all body types. It is important to determine each class in the sizing system based on a real prototype that is as representative as possible of each class. In this paper we propose a methodology to develop an efficient apparel sizing system based on clustering techniques jointly with OWA operators. Our approach is a natural extension and improvement of the methodology proposed by McCulloch et al in 1998 [22],and we apply it to the anthropometric database obtained from a anthropometric survey of the Spanish female population, performed during 2006.

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“…In the grading process, the ease allowance, shape, and body proportions are important factors that affect the garment silhouette and comfort. However, garment patterns are often graded using a planar pattern and it is thus difficult to make a garment while keeping the silhouette of the master pattern, especially in the case of a garment with a curved surface (Price and Zamkoff, 1996;Bye et al, 2008).…”

Section: Introductionmentioning

confidence: 99%

Three-dimensional garment-size change modeled considering vertical proportions

Zhang

Kim

Takatera

2017

IJCST

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Purpose The purpose of this paper is to propose a size-changing method with three-dimensional (3D) garment modeling for various body sizes considering vertical body proportions in addition to horizontal dimensions, while preserving the silhouette and ease of the original garment. Design/methodology/approach Cross-sectional dimensions and shapes of one dress form (the standard body) and jacket bodice were obtained by 3D scanning. The authors calculated horizontal multiplication factors of the relationship between the standard body and jacket bodice, and vertical body proportions. A target dress form was deformed using multiplication factors and vertical body proportions to construct a garment model that fitted the dress form. The method was verified using three different dress forms. The bodices of the jackets were compared with those obtained without adjusting vertical proportions. Findings Employing the proposed method, jacket bodices were made and fitted on target bodies while preserving the original shape. Jackets bodices made without considering vertical proportions had many wrinkles and deformed shape and poor fit around the bust line owing to the different vertical proportions. The vertical proportion is thus an important factor in the 3D garment modeling of garments of different size fitted on a body. Research limitations/implications The proposed method is a new size-changing or grading method for a bodice that preserves the original silhouette. Originality/value The proposed modeling method allows the construction of jacket bodice models and jackets of different size considering vertical body proportions. The method is applicable when making individually tailored garments or ready-to-wear garments for different targets.

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Optimized pattern grading

Cited by 36 publications

References 7 publications

Building patternmaking theory: a case study of published patternmaking practices for pants

Building patternmaking theory: a case study of published patternmaking practices for pants

Apparel sizing using trimmed PAM and OWA operators

Three-dimensional garment-size change modeled considering vertical proportions

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