Batches in a combing plant were monitored to examine the relative influence of a number of greasy wool characteristics on the early stages of worsted processing. Characteristics measured for each batch included those normally available from core testing (mean fiber diameter, yield, and vegetable matter content), together with staple length and its variability, staple strength and the position of staple weakness, clean color, resistance to bulk compression of clean wool, and variability of fiber diameter. Combing noilage, the mean and distribution of fiber length, and the mean fiber diameter of the resultant tops were the processing factors considered. High levels of association were found between selected subsets of the characteristics of the greasy wool and the processing factors. There is some discussion of the appropriateness of the methods of regression analysis and the refevance of the work to the commercial situation.
An account is given of an experimental study conducted specifically to examine the effects of large variations in the staple strength of greasy wool on subsequent performance in combing and spinning by means of pilot-scale processing techniques. Batches were processed for two levels of mean fibre diameter (20 and 22 ^m), each at four levels of staple strength (nominally 20, 30. 45. and 60 N/ktex). and there was close control over other raw-wool properties. Three comb settings were used for each batch. Yarns were spun to five counts selected to include the normal commercial range and the limiting situation. The SAWTRI mean-spindle-speed test was employed to assess spinning performance.The resultant fibre length and its distribution for tops were found to be closely dependent on the staple strength and the comb setting. Differences in Hauteur of 11-14 mm were otwerved between the batches from the low-and high-staple-strength categories within each comb setting and fibre-diameter grouping. Differences in spinning performance were observed between the batches of the weakest wools and those of the other batches for which there were no marked trends in performance despite the differences in the fibre length of the tops.
An Investigation is reported In which tops manufactured from batches of greasy wool varying widely In staple strength and the location of the zone of weakness were converted to yam on the worsted system.The strength properties of the greasy wools were not related to the fibre breakage that occurred In producing yam, nor did they significantly effect spinning breaks or yam properties when spinning speed was similar to that used in coMnerclal practIce.At higher speed, however^ variatIons In spinning efficiency and yam properties were nore closely related to the differences In Hauteur In the tops and therefore to the strength properties of the greasy wool.
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