Abstract. Anti-aging cosmetics are widely used for improving signs of aged skin such as skin wrinkles, decreased elasticity, low dermal density and yellow skin tone. The present study evaluated the effects of cosmetic formulations, eye cream and facial cream, containing palmitoyl peptides, Silybum marianum (S. marianum) seed oil, vitamin E and other functional ingredients on the improvement of facial wrinkles, elasticity, dermal density and skin tone after 4 weeks period of application on aged human skin. Healthy volunteers (n=20) with aged skin were recruited to apply the test materials facially twice per day for 4 weeks. Skin wrinkles, elasticity, dermal density and skin tone were measured instrumentally for assessing the improvement of skin aging. All the measurements were conducted prior to the application of test materials and at 2 and 4 weeks of treatment. Crow's feet wrinkles were decreased 5.97% after 2 weeks of test material application and 14.07% after 4 weeks of application in comparison of pre-application. Skin elasticity was increased 6.81% after 2 weeks and 8.79% after 4 weeks. Dermal density was increased 16.74% after 2 weeks and 27.63% after 4 weeks. With the L * value indicating skin brightness and the a * value indicating erythema (redness), the results showed that brightness was increased 1.70% after 2 weeks and 2.14% after 4 weeks, and erythema was decreased 10.45% after 2 weeks and 22.39% after 4 weeks. Hence, the test materials appear to exert some degree of anti-aging effects on aged human skin. There were no abnormal skin responses from the participants during the trial period. We conclude that the facial and eye cream containing palmitoyl peptides and S. marianum seed oil, vitamin E and other ingredients have effects on the improvement of facial wrinkles, elasticity, dermal density and skin tone.

The titrated extract of Centella asiatica (TECA) is a reconstituted mixture comprising of asiatic acid, madecassic acid, asiaticoside and madecassoside, and is used as a therapeutic agent in wound healing and also as an anti-microbial, anticancer and anti-aging agent. Although these properties and the associated cell signaling pathways have been elucidated, the cellular mechanism of anti-photoaging upon ultraviolet (UV) exposure in normal human dermal fibroblasts (NHDFs) remains unknown. In this study, we investigated the photoprotective role of TECA via microRNA (miRNA) expression profiling analysis. Low dose of TECA did not exhibit toxicity and showed a protective effect against UVB irradiation in NDHFs. miRNA microarray experiments revealed that specific miRNAs were altered by TECA stimulation in UVB-irradiated NHDFs. Functional bioinformatic analysis showed that the putative target genes of the altered miRNAs were associated with the positive regulation of cell proliferation, anti-apoptosis, small GTPase- and Ras-mediated signal transduction and activation of MAPKK. Therefore, these results suggest that TECA may serve as a potential natural chemoprotective agent against UVB-mediated damage in NHDFs through changes in the expression of specific miRNAs.

The aim of this study was to investigate the mechanisms by which troxerutin protects cells against ultraviolet B (UVB) radiation. First, we demonstrate that pre-treatment with troxerutin protects normal human dermal fibroblasts (nHDFs) against UVB-induced cytotoxicity. As shown by migration assay and DNA repair analysis, troxerutin increased cell migration and DNA repair activity in the nHDFs. Subsequently, we analyzed microRNA (miRNA) expression profiles in the nHDFs. miRNAs are 19- to 24-nucleotide (nt) non-coding RNA molecules that regulate the translation of target genes through RNA interference. In UVB-exposed cells, miRNAs act on crucial functions, such as apoptosis and cellular senescence. miRNA expression is significantly altered during the protective process induced by phytochemicals. Therefore, understanding changes that occur in miRNA expression profiles may help to elucidate the protective mechanisms of troxerutin. We identified 11 miRNAs that were significantly (>2-fold) upregulated and 12 that were significantly downregulated (>2-fold) following treatment of the nHDFs with troxerutin. In addition, we investigated the biological functions of these miRNAs through the prediction of miRNA targets and Gene Ontology analysis of the putative targets. Overall, our findings indicate that pre-treatment with troxerutin increases the viability of UVB-exposed nHDFs through the alteration of the miRNA expression profiles.

The green tea polyphenol epigallocatechin-3-gallate (EGCG) is a potent anti-oxidant and anticancer compound. Recently, EGCG-mediated UVB photoprotection was reported in normal human dermal fibroblasts (NHDFs); however, the molecular mechanism underlying this process remains unknown. Thus, we investigated the EGCG-specific microRNAs (miRNAs) involved in the UVB protective response in NHDFs. WST-1 assays confirmed that low doses (<50 µM) of EGCG were non-cytotoxic and capable of recovering NHDF cell viability following UVB irradiation up to 83.7% compared to the control cells. Microarray analysis identified several miRNAs that were upregulated and downregulated significantly in this UVB protective response, with downregulated miRNAs outnumbering the upregulated ones. Bioinformatic studies, including miRNA target gene prediction and gene ontology analysis, revealed that the EGCG-specific miRNAs may control genes involved in transcription regulation and inhibition of apoptosis, but not MAPK activation, in NHDFs. Therefore, these results suggest that EGCG may serve as a potential natural photoprotective agent against UVB-mediated damage in NHDFs by altering specific miRNA expression.

Background: This study aims to clinically verify the effects of myrtle essential oil, which has non-irritation, nontoxicity, and non-sensitivity characteristics among natural materials, by applying the oil to acne skin of Korean women, with special emphasis on a development of natural substances with a high safety to relieve acne and minimize skin irritation. Methods: After a homogeneity test was conducted targeting 20 Korean women with acne skin, who have met the primary and the secondary clinical selection criteria, the subjects were divided into the treatment group with myrtle essential oil applied (the experimental group) and the no-treatment group with no myrtle essential oil applied (the control group) to use provided cosmetics every morning and evening for 6 weeks. To precisely check the effects of the myrtle substances, the provided cosmetics are made with only a difference in the presence or absence of added myrtle substances, leaving all other substances equal. Results: The acne grades significantly decreased in the experimental group with myrtle applied, with the pore index (outstanding pores, large pores, blackheads), the erythema index, the sebum index, and the desquamation index also decreased in the group. Lastly, the microorganism index decreased considerably in the experimental group, showing all evaluation indicators related to acne improved in the experimental group in a statistically significant manner. On the other hand, the acne grades a little decreased in the control group with no myrtle applied, but with no statistical significance, while the pore index (outstanding pores, large pores, blackheads), the erythema index, the sebum index, and the desquamation index rather increased to some extent. In addition, the microorganism index decreased in the control group, but with a smaller volume of changes than that in the experimental group. Conclusion: This study has clinically proved that myrtle essential oil has effects for convergence, reduction in erythema, removal of sebum and dead skin cells, and antibacterial activity on the facial skin of Korean women. Especially, this study confirmed that myrtle essential oil is a safe, skin-soothing substance effective for treating acne by showing the oil reduced the number of erythema.