The data suggest niacinamide is an effective skin lightening compound that works by inhibiting melanosome transfer from melanocytes to keratinocytes.

Skin pigmentation results in part from the transfer of melanized melanosomes synthesized by melanocytes to neighboring keratinocytes. Plasma membrane lectins and their glycoconjugates expressed by these epidermal cells are critical molecules involved in this transfer process. In addition, the derivative of vitamin B(3), niacinamide, can inhibit melanosome transfer and induce skin lightening. We investigated the effects of these molecules on the viability of melanocytes and keratinocytes and on the reversibility of melanosome-transfer inhibition induced by these agents using an in vitro melanocyte-keratinocyte coculture model system. While lectins and neoglycoproteins could induce apoptosis in a dose-dependent manner to melanocytes or keratinocytes in monoculture, similar dosages of the lectins, as opposed to neoglycoproteins, did not induce apoptosis to either cell type when treated in coculture. The dosages of lectins and niacinamide not affecting cell viability produced an inhibitory effect on melanosome transfer, when used either alone or together in cocultures of melanocytes-keratinocytes. Cocultures treated with lectins or niacinamide resumed normal melanosome transfer in 3 days after removal of the inhibitor, while cocultures treated with a combination of lectins and niacinamide demonstrated a lag in this recovery. Subsequently, we assessed the effect of niacinamide on facial hyperpigmented spots using a vehicle-controlled, split-faced design human clinical trial. Topical application of niacinamide resulted in a dose-dependent and reversible reduction in hyperpigmented lesions. These results suggest that lectins and niacinamide at concentrations that do not affect cell viability are reversible inhibitors of melanosome transfer.

Glucosamine has been reported to inhibit melanin production in melanocyte culture. It thus has a potential to reduce hyperpigmentation via topical use. Due to stability limitations of glucosamine, we chose to clinically evaluate the stable derivative N-acetyl glucosamine (NAG). Based on in vitro Franz cell testing, NAG is a good skin penetrant. In an 8-week, double-blind, placebo-controlled, left-right randomized, split-face clinical test, topical 2% NAG reduced the appearance of facial hyperpigmentation. In a second clinical study involving the topical combination of 2% NAG with 4% niacinamide, an agent previously shown to be clinically active, the effect on hyperpigmentation was greater. Both of these agents are well tolerated by the skin. This high tolerance coupled with relative ease of formulation and stability in solution make NAG, especially in combination with niacinamide, a suitable cosmetic ingredient for use in skin care products dealing with issues of skin hyperpigmentation.

The data suggest that use of high-frequency ultrasound radiation together with skin-lightening gel is effective to reduce hyperpigmentation via enhancing transepidermal transport of skin-lightening agents.

Modification of skin complexion coloration has traditionally been accomplished by interruption or attenuation of melanogenesis and/or melanosome transfer. Post-transfer modification of pigmented melanosomes provides an attractive and distinct avenue of modulating skin pigmentation. The processing of melanosomes during keratinocyte (KC) terminal differentiation and the degradative variability observed between light and dark skin (LS and DS) remains enigmatic. To evaluate this, we developed a model system to investigate the loss of fluorescently labeled and isolated melanosomes by cultured human KCs. The extent of melanosome loss has been qualitatively assessed using transmission electron microscopy and indirect immunofluorescence with confocal microscopy, and quantitatively assessed using flow cytometry analysis. Results show that melanosomes are incorporated into the cytoplasm of both light and dark keratinocytes (LKCs and DKCs) and trafficked to a perinuclear region. Within 48  hours, confocal microscopy images suggest that LKCs display accelerated melanosome loss. This time-dependent decrease in carboxyfluorescein diacetate (CFDA) fluorescence was then quantitatively analyzed using flow cytometry. Consistent with the results of the confocal analysis, over a 48-hour time frame, LKCs appear to lose melanosomes more efficiently than DKCs. These experiments show that melanosomes are more rapidly lost in KCs derived from LS as opposed to DS.