Determining the effectiveness of vitamin C in skin care by atomic force microscope

Abstract

This article presents the results of experiments, which examine cell mechanisms with the goal of confirming the effective action of the active ingredients used in anti‐aging cosmetics. Skin stiffness measurements with the use of an atomic force microscope on two forms of vitamin C (ascorbyl tetraisopalmitate and l‐ascorbic acid) have been presented. The estimated Young's modulus for three types of cells (a control as well as cells treated with two forms of vitamin C) has shown significant differences in the stiffness of the tested cells which was confirmed in the histological staining experiment. The presented results indicate the dependence between collagen synthesis and the stiffness of cells treated with two forms of vitamin C.

Nanoemulsion Stabilized by Safe Surfactin from Bacillus subtilis as a Multifunctional, Custom-Designed Smart Delivery System

“…Ascorbic acid in concentrations above 10 mM was found to be strongly toxic to human tenocytes and at concentrations from 1 mM adversely affected cell morphology [ 44 ]. Other research showed that the cytotoxicity of vitamin C in the form of L-ascorbic acid and ascorbyl palmitate to L929 fibroblasts was in the range of 0.000015–0.15% [ 45 ]. The IC 50 values for vitamin C tested against cell lines CLV102, ME18 and ME18/R amounted to 200 ± 13.36, 373 ± 11.70 and 310 ± 10, respectively [ 46 ].…”

A review of topical vitamin C derivatives and their efficacy

“…VC‐IP is a stable, esterified, lipid‐soluble vit C derivative that contains several fatty acid branches intended to enhance transcutaneous delivery. Several in vitro studies have shown VC‐IP is an effective antioxidant 28,29 and has positive effects on skin hydration, hyperpigmentation, and aging 30–34 . Some studies challenge VC‐IP’s level of percutaneous absorption and overall stability 6,30 …”

“…Other studies have investigated the anti‐aging effects of AITP. Dulinska‐Molak et al 32 evaluated skin stiffness after treatment of fibroblasts and donor skin samples with VC‐IP versus AA. The results showed that AA had better anti‐aging effects than VC‐IP, but AA has the downside of light sensitivity and instability, so its effectiveness is not preserved over time.…”

“…The results showed that AA had better anti‐aging effects than VC‐IP, but AA has the downside of light sensitivity and instability, so its effectiveness is not preserved over time. VC‐IP was found to have some ability to increase collagen synthesis in tissues but to a lesser degree than AA 32 . Goldberg et al 33 conducted five clinical studies of night facial serum containing melatonin, bakuchiol, and VC‐IP to look at the anti‐aging ability of these ingredients.…”

Modulus characterization of cells with submicron colloidal probes by atomic force microscope

“…Carl et al indented living Chinese hamster ovary cells with both sharp probes and colloidal probes (r ranged from 0.5 to 26 μm) and found that the colloidal probe (r = 6.4 μm) remained stable value of the calculation of modulus (Carl & Schillers, 2008). Sokolov et al used a colloidal probe (r = 2.5 μm) for the study of cellular modulus and confirmed that the probe could maintain a linear stress-strain state between the human cervical epithelial cell and the probe (Dulinska-Molak et al, 2019;Sokolov, Dokukin, & Guz, 2013).…”