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The classification of perfumes into olfactory families has been done for years on the basis of sensorial analysis or odor descriptors, but none of these methods has attained universal acceptance. In this work is presented a methodology called perfumery radar (PR) that predicts the classification of perfumes using the olfactive families that perfumers use. The PR introduces some scientific basis, reducing the arbitrariness of perfume classification to the empirical classification of pure odorants. The odor intensity of pure fragrances in a liquid mixture is predicted using the odor value concept, considering molecular interactions between components. Radar plots are used to represent olfactory families and transform quantitative information into qualitative. Perfumery radars have been obtained for several commercial perfumes and compared with existing experimental classifications. Another validation using headspace GC analysis was also performed with satisfactory results. It is shown that the PR methodology is able to predict the primary olfactive family of perfumes, according to the experimental classification given by perfumers. The prediction of secondary and tertiary families agreed with some of the empirical classifications in most cases, although there was little agreement among those at this level.
The classification of perfumes into olfactory families has been done for years on the basis of sensorial analysis or odor descriptors, but none of these methods has attained universal acceptance. In this work is presented a methodology called perfumery radar (PR) that predicts the classification of perfumes using the olfactive families that perfumers use. The PR introduces some scientific basis, reducing the arbitrariness of perfume classification to the empirical classification of pure odorants. The odor intensity of pure fragrances in a liquid mixture is predicted using the odor value concept, considering molecular interactions between components. Radar plots are used to represent olfactory families and transform quantitative information into qualitative. Perfumery radars have been obtained for several commercial perfumes and compared with existing experimental classifications. Another validation using headspace GC analysis was also performed with satisfactory results. It is shown that the PR methodology is able to predict the primary olfactive family of perfumes, according to the experimental classification given by perfumers. The prediction of secondary and tertiary families agreed with some of the empirical classifications in most cases, although there was little agreement among those at this level.
The article contains sections titled: 1. Introduction 1.1. The Chemical Senses 1.2. Definition 1.3. History 1.4. Odor Descriptors, Odor Thresholds, Odor Value 1.4.1. Qualitative Measurements 1.4.2. Quantitative Measurements 1.4.2.1. Odor Threshold 1.4.2.2. Odor Value 1.5. Regulations and Labeling Requirements 1.5.1. Flavors 1.5.2. Fragrances 2. Single Fragrance and Flavor Compounds 2.1. Aliphatic Compounds 2.1.1. Hydrocarbons 2.1.2. Alcohols 2.1.3. Aldehydes and Acetals 2.1.4. Ketones 2.1.5. Acids and Esters 2.1.6. Miscellaneous Compounds 2.2. Acyclic Terpenes 2.2.1. Hydrocarbons 2.2.2. Alcohols 2.2.3. Aldehydes and Acetals 2.2.4. Ketones 2.2.5. Acids and Esters 2.2.5.1. Geranyl and Neryl Esters 2.2.5.2. Linalyl and Lavandulyl Esters 2.2.5.3. Citronellyl Esters 2.2.6. Miscellaneous Compounds 2.3. Cyclic Terpenes 2.3.1. Hydrocarbons 2.3.2. Alcohols and Ethers 2.3.3. Aldehydes and Ketones 2.3.4. Esters 2.3.5. Miscellaneous Compounds 2.4. Other Cycloaliphatic Compounds 2.4.1. Alcohols 2.4.2. Aldehydes 2.4.3. Ketones 2.4.4. Esters 2.5. Aromatic Compounds 2.5.1. Hydrocarbons 2.5.2. Alcohols and Ethers 2.5.3. Aldehydes and Acetals 2.5.4. Ketones 2.5.5. Esters of Araliphatic Alcohols and Aliphatic Acids 2.5.6. Aromatic Acids 2.5.7. Esters Derived from Aromatic and Araliphatic Acids 2.5.7.1. Benzoates 2.5.7.2. Phenyl acetates 2.5.7.3. Cinnamates 2.5.8. Miscellaneous Compounds 2.6. Phenols and Phenol Derivatives 2.6.1. Phenols, Phenyl Esters, and Phenyl Ethers 2.6.2. Phenol Alcohols and their Esters 2.6.3. Phenol Aldehydes 2.6.4. Phenol Ketones 2.6.5. Phenol Carboxylates 2.7. O‐ and O, S‐Heterocycles 2.7.1. Cyclic Ethers 2.7.2. Lactones 2.7.3. Glycidates 2.7.4. Miscellaneous Compounds 2.8. N‐ and N, S‐Heterocycles 3. Natural Raw Materials in the Flavor and Fragrance Industry 3.1. Introduction 3.2. Isolation of Natural Fragrance and Flavor Concentrates 3.2.1. Essential Oils 3.2.2. Extracts 3.3. Survey of Natural Raw Materials 4. Quality Control 5. Economic Aspects 6. Toxicology and Environmental Aspects
The article contains sections titled: 1. Introduction 2. Raw Materials and Production 3. Perfume Compositions 4. Development of Extrait Perfumes 4.1. Fragrance Concepts 4.2. Fragrance Notes 5. Perfumes for Cosmetics, Toiletries, and Household Products 6. Economic Aspects
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