Despite the physiological similarities between the two groups of sensitive skin subjects, differences in their biochemistry were clearly evident. Lower levels of PCA, BH and TG activities together with a greater number of smaller and immature corneocytes indicate inferior SC maturation in the capsaicin-sensitive subjects. The reduced maturation of corneocytes and thinner SC likely contributes to a greater penetration of capsaicin and the associated increased skin sensitivity.

Background: Facial wrinkles, pores, and uneven skin tone are major beauty concerns. There is differential manifestation of aging signs in different ethnic groups. In this regard, studies on Black Africans from the African continent are scarce.Objective: To investigate facial wrinkles, pores, and skin tone in Black African women from Mauritius Island and elucidate the differences to Caucasian women from France.Methods: Facial images were taken using the imaging system ColorFace ® . Wrinkles and pores were measured by their length, depth, surface, volume, and number; for skin tone, we measured L*a*b* and calculated ITA, IWA Newtone , and color homogeneity. Results:We found good correlations of wrinkle and pore scores with expert ranking done on ColorFace ® images for Caucasians (Spearman's rho = 0.78 and 0.72) andBlack Africans (Spearman's rho = 0.86 and 0.65). Caucasians showed more advanced facial signs of aging than Black Africans. Exceptions were vertical lines on upper lip and the depth of pores which were greatest for the Black African subjects. Black Africans had higher heterogeneity scores indicative for uneven skin tone. Luminance (L*) was significantly higher in Caucasians but a* and b* values were significantly higher in the Black African subjects. ITA and IWA Newtone were significantly higher for Caucasians. Conclusions:The high correlation between expert ranking and wrinkle and pore measurements prove ColorFace ® a valid imaging system to study skin aging. Our results show that Africans from the African continent show delayed signs of aging compared to Caucasians. Some exceptions suggest that ethnic differences in facial aging are a complex phenomenon. K E Y W O R D Santi-aging, Black African skin, Caucasian skin, ColorFace®, Ethnic, facial imaging, pores, skin tone, wrinkles

IntroductionWe report on the preparation and efficacy of 10‐hydroxystearic acid (HSA) that improves facial age spots and conspicuous pores.MethodsThe hydration of oleic acid into HSA was catalyzed by the oleate hydratase from Escherichia coli. Following treatment with HSA, collagen type I and type III was assessed in primary human dermal fibroblasts together with collagen type III, p53 protein levels and sunburn cells (SBC) after UVB irradiation (1 J cm−2) by immunohistochemistry on human ex vivo skin. UVB‐induced expression of matrix metalloprotease‐1 (MMP‐1) was determined from full thickness skin by RT‐qPCR. Modification of the fibroblast secretome by HSA was studied by mass‐spectrometry‐based proteomics. In a full‐face, double blind, vehicle‐controlled trial HSA was assessed for its effects on conspicuous facial pore size and degree of pigmentation of age spots in Caucasian women over an 8‐week period.ResultsHSA was obtained in enantiomeric pure, high yield (≥80%). Collagen type I and type III levels were dose‐dependently increased (96% and 244%; P < 0.01) in vitro and collagen type III in ex vivo skin by +57% (P < 0.01) by HSA. HSA also inhibited UVB‐induced MMP‐1 gene expression (83%; P < 0.01) and mitigated SBC induction (−34% vs. vehicle control) and reduced significantly UV‐induced p53 up‐regulation (−46% vs. vehicle control; P < 0.01) in irradiated skin. HSA modified the fibroblast secretome with significant increases in proteins associated with the WNT pathway that could reduce melanogenesis and proteins that could modify dermal fibroblast activity and keratinocyte differentiation to account for the alleviation of conspicuous pores. Docking studies in silico and EC50 determination in reporter gene assays (EC50 5.5 × 10−6 M) identified HSA as a peroxisomal proliferator activated receptor‐α (PPARα) agonist. Clinically, HSA showed a statistically significant decrease of surface and volume of skin pores (P < 0.05) after 8 weeks of application and age spots became significantly less pigmented than the surrounding skin (contrast, P < 0.05) after 4 weeks.ConclusionHSA acts as a PPARα agonist to reduce the signs of age spots and conspicuous pores by significantly modulating the expression of p53, SBC, MMP‐1 and collagen together with major changes in secreted proteins that modify keratinocyte, melanocyte and fibroblast cell behavior.

One of the first lines of cutaneous defense against photoaging is (a) the synthesis of melanin and (b) the initiation of an oxidative stress response to protect skin against the harmful effects of solar radiation. Safe and selective means to stimulate epidermal pigmentation associated with oxidative stress defense are; however, scarce. Activation of the melanocortin-1 receptor (MC1R) on epidermal melanocytes represents a key step in cutaneous pigmentation initiation and, additionally, it regulates cellular defense mechanisms like oxidative stress and DNA-repair. Thus, making the activation of MC1R an attractive strategy for modulating skin pigmentation and oxidative stress. In this context, we designed and synthesized pentapeptides that act as MC1R agonists. These peptides bound, with high potency, to MC1R and activated cAMP synthesis in CHO cells expressing human MC1R. Using one lead pentapeptide, we could show that this activation of MC1R was specific as testing the activation of other G-protein coupled receptors, including the MC-receptor family, was negative. In vitro efficacy on mouse melanoma cells showed similar potency as for the synthetic MC1R agonist alpha-melanocyte stimulating hormone (NDP-alpha-MSH). Moreover, we could reproduce this activity in human skin tissue culture. The lead pentapeptide was able to induce ex-vivo protein expression of key melanogenesis markers melanocyte inducing transcription factor (MITF), tyrosinase (TYR), and tyrosinase-related protein 1 (TYRP-1). Concerning oxidative stress response, we found that the pentapeptide enhanced the activation of Nrf2 after UVA-irradiation. Our results make this pentapeptide an ideal candidate as a skin pigmentation enhancer that mimics alpha-MSH and may also have anti-photoaging effects on the skin.

Determining hitherto uninvestigated and safe targets to halt the aging process is important in our aging society. Graying is a hallmark of the aging process and may be used to identify aging tissue for comparative analysis. Here we analyzed differential gene expressions between pigmented, gray, and white human scalp skin hair follicles (HFs) from identical donors. Forming intersections between five donors identified 194/192 downregulated and 186/177 upregulated genes in gray/white HFs. These included melanogenesis (tyrosinase; tyrosinase-related protein 1)- and melanosome structure (Melan-A; Pmel17)-associated genes and regulation of melanocyte relevant tyrosine kinases. Alongside these expected changes, regulated genes included nonmelanocyte-related genes associated with aging as well as nonaging-related genes associated with melanocytes. Intriguingly, among them, genes associated with energy metabolism (i.e., glutaminase) and axon guidance (plexin C1) were altered. These results were reflected by pathway analysis and exemplarily confirmed by PCR and immunohistochemical studies. Supplementing cultured HFs with glutamine or plexin C1 revealed biological relevance and pharmacointerventional potential of these microarray results in altering the HF aging process. Together, we present intriguing data obtained from intra-individual sample comparison that suggest the graying HF to be a valid aging model and a promising target for testing therapeutic interventions.