Comparison between Standards for Seam‐woven Fabric Properties Determination

Manich, A. M.; Domingues, Jorge; Sauri, R. M.

doi:10.1108/09556229410074556

Cited by 5 publications

(3 citation statements)

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“…Strength tests were carried out according to a modus operandi [6, 8] which is a variant of the ISO standard. This test applies the “grab” technique and was carried out by means of a computerized “Instron” strength tester.…”

Section: The Experimentsmentioning

confidence: 99%

Assembling textile structures: wear simulation

Domingues

Manich²,

Sauri³

et al. 1997

International Journal of Clothing Science and Technology

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Plans a wear simulation of assembled textile structures by sewing, basing the study on the submission of standardized seams carried out on 40 wool fabrics and blends containing wool to a series of 20 cycles of fatigue, including: washing, drying and submission to a static mechanical load under determined characteristics and steam ironing. Seams in the warp and weft directions were performed on. Examines the following parameters: fabric strength and elongation to break; seam strength and slippage; seam efficiency; seams’ opening limit and both the modulus at 1mm and at break, along the fatigue cycles. Analyses results obtained in function of the seam directions and fatigue cycles.

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Section: The Experimentsmentioning

confidence: 99%

Assembling textile structures: wear simulation

Domingues

Manich²,

Sauri³

et al. 1997

International Journal of Clothing Science and Technology

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“…Some standard methods for the investigation of the yarn slippage at the sewn seams in the woven fabrics are known [8]. They are constantly developed, e. g. it is known, that application of standard method did not provide accurate results about the yarn slippage at the sewn seams in the lining woven fabrics and it was complemented with additional analysis of the captured images of the deformed sewn seams [9,10].…”

Section: Introduction *mentioning

confidence: 99%

The Evaluation of Yarn Slippage at the Sewn Seam in Woven Fabrics Using the New Methods

Bačkauskaitė

Daukantienė

Vaitkevičius

2013

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In the present study, the new methods for the investigation of the yarn slippage at the sewn seams in woven fabrics and for the determination of the parameters of yarn pulling out from woven fabrics were suggested. The original test methods capable to imitate similar to the real clothing wearing conditions, to evaluate the influence of external friction, of deformation method and of the position of seam allowances in respect to stitching line on the yarn slippage parameters were designed. Applying the new method based on the yarn pulling out from woven fabric with sewn seam, the analysis of the friction that occurs between warps and wefts during their sliding was done. Consequently, the behavior of the sewn seams in woven fabrics was analyzed applying the linear regression model which describes the dependence between the parameters such as: yarn pull out force F pull-out , yarn pull out displacement ε pull-out , the woven fabrics' mechanical characteristics such as: bending rigidity in warp direction B1, fabric elongation in warp direction E100-1 and yarn slippage at sewn seam parameter (seam opening d). The created three-cluster model enabled to split the investigated woven fabrics into three statistically different groups.

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“…As a rule, fabrics incorporated in clothes are subjected to a wide range of complex deformations, such as bending, folding, creasing, wrinkling and stretching, in different directions and of different forces, which are often acting at the same time. The degree of garment deformability depends not only on the fabric's structure, which is more or less anisotropic, but also on its behavior in the product, when the fabric's properties are affected by seams, 1 additional layers or different orientations of pieces. 2 It is known that seams or additional layers decrease the elasticity of garments and fabric construction.…”

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confidence: 99%

Investigation of knitted fabrics and the deformation of their assemblies by the Y-shaped specimen method

Audzevičiūtė-Liutkienė

Masteikaitė

Jucienė

et al. 2017

Textile Research Journal

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Textile fabric deformability during garment wear is a very important property as it influences performance conditions, the wearer’s comfort and the aesthetic view of the garment. Deformation of material in the garment depends on the clothing construction, anatomical features and physical activity of the wearer and garment fit. This paper presents an investigation of knitted fabrics and the deformation of their assembly peculiarities, considering the complex behavior of textile materials during wear using the Y-shaped specimen method. The fabric element partially experienced force affects in respective garment areas. In this case, several deformation types appear at the same type. In our research the special shaped specimen of form “Y” was used to performing the uniaxial tensile test to simulate this phenomenon. According to this method, longitudinal, transversal and angular characteristics describing the deformation of textile materials and their stitched systems were determined. It was found that after the extension indicator of angular deformation has changed the most, the amount of change reached up to 70%. In the Y-shaped knitted specimens, the seam significantly influences the size of the tensile force. Also, the changes of angle indicator, when the specimens are joined with seams, are obvious and reach 50%.

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Comparison between Standards for Seam‐woven Fabric Properties Determination

Cited by 5 publications

References 0 publications

Assembling textile structures: wear simulation

Assembling textile structures: wear simulation

The Evaluation of Yarn Slippage at the Sewn Seam in Woven Fabrics Using the New Methods

Investigation of knitted fabrics and the deformation of their assemblies by the Y-shaped specimen method

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