Effects of palmitoyl-KVK-L-ascorbic acid on skin wrinkles and pigmentation

Abstract

Wrinkle formation and abnormal pigmentation are major clinical alterations associated with skin aging. As the aim of our study was to investigate the effects of palmitoyl-KVK-L-ascorbic acid on skin aging, the anti-wrinkle and depigmentation effects of palmitoyl-KVK-L-ascorbic acid were evaluated by measuring collagen expression in dermal fibroblast cells and inhibition of melanogenesis in B16F1 cells, respectively. The anti-aging effect of palmitoyl-KVK-L-ascorbic acid cream was also evaluated against a placebo cream in a clinical trial. Our results confirmed that the expression of type Ι collagen in dermal fibroblast cells treated with palmitoyl-KVK-L-ascorbic acid (0.1-4 μg/mL) increased in a dose-dependent manner. In B16F1 cells, treatment with 20 μg/mL palmitoyl-KVK-L-ascorbic acid reduced the melanin content by approximately 20% compared to alpha-melanocyte stimulating hormone treatment. In the clinical trial, application of palmitoyl-KVK-L-ascorbic acid cream led to an improvement in skin roughness and lightness in 12 and 8 weeks, respectively. Our data show that palmitoyl-KVK-L-ascorbic acid is an effective anti-aging agent that reduces wrinkles and abnormal skin pigmentation.

Antioxidants as an Epidermal Stem Cell Activator

“…The chemical modification of the hydroxyl group at the C-2 position of ascorbic acid produced stable derivatives such as 2-O-α-D glucopyranosyl-L-ascorbic acid (ascorbic acid 2-glucoside) [ 140 , 141 ]. Conjugated form of palmitoyl-KVK and ascorbic acid (palmitoyl-KVK-L-ascorbic acid) to enhance stability and skin penetration of ascorbic acid not only increased type I collagen synthesis in dermal fibroblasts but also improved facial wrinkles and pigmentation in vivo [ 142 , 143 ]. Ascorbic acid encapsulated into negatively charged liposomes exhibited increased stability, skin permeation [ 139 ].…”

Topical application of a commercially available formulation of vitamin C stabilized by vitamin E and ferulic acid reduces tissue viability and protein synthesis in ex vivo human normal skin

“…The use of anti‐aging cosmetics with vitamin C has increased in the last decade mainly due to their beneficial effects in preventing and minimizing the signs of skin aging 39 . The topical application of cosmetic goods containing 5%‐20% vitamin C promotes facial rejuvenation reducing wrinkles and erythema and increasing skin elasticity in volunteers 40‐42 . In human skin in vivo and pig skin, the topical application of aqueous solution containing 15% vitamin C and stabilized with 1% vitamin E and 0.5% ferulic acid at low pH (as observed in formulation 1 and 2) reduces UVA radiation–induced erythema 20,22 .…”

“…39 The topical application of cosmetic goods containing 5%-20% vitamin C promotes facial rejuvenation reducing wrinkles and erythema and increasing skin elasticity in volunteers. [40][41][42] In human skin in vivo and pig skin, the topical application of aqueous solution containing 15% vitamin C and stabilized with 1% vitamin E and 0.5% ferulic acid at low pH (as observed in formulation 1 and 2) reduces UVA radiation-induced erythema. 20,22 In addition, the administration of vitamin C in the medium protects reconstituted human epidermis or keratinocyte 3D cultures against DNA damage, inflammation, and apoptosis induced by UVA and UVB radiation.…”

Intramelanocytic Acidification Plays a Role in the Antimelanogenic and Antioxidative Properties of Vitamin C and Its Derivatives

“…Vitamin C (VC), also known as ascorbic acid, is a water-soluble vitamin essential for a number of processes in human skin, such as dermal collagen synthesis, antiaging, and antioxidation [2–4]. Emerging evidence has indicated that VC and its derivatives exert therapeutic effects on recalcitrant melasma and facial hyperpigmentation [5, 6], but little is known about their antipigmentary mechanism(s).…”