Mechanical Properties and Handle of Cotton Crepe Fabrics

Abstract

The aim of this study is to establish a basis for the handle design of traditional Japanese cotton crepe fabrics for women's dresses and summer jackets. We collected 17 cotton fabrics with different crepe structures. The mechanical and surface properties of the fabrics were measured by using the KES-FB system. The primary hand values of crepe fabrics were obtained by an objective evaluation method developed by Kawabata. The tactile feel of crepe fabrics was assessed by 39 university students. Compared with women's dress fabrics (n = 280), cotton crepe fabrics showed large values for surface properties and tensile strain at maximum load in the weft direction of the fabrics. In terms of primary hand values, high Hari with low Shinayakasa were identified as distinctive features of cotton crepe fabrics suitable for hot humid summer conditions. The subjective hand values of softness, smoothness, and preference with regard to crepe fabrics were closely related to the parameters bending rigidity B and fabric thickness T0 : small values for T0 and B were associated with high scores for these subjective hand values. On this basis, T0 and B can be used as key parameters for the design of cotton crepe fabrics. by 39 university students (21 women and 18 men ; age 18 to 24 years). They were told that the intended use of these fabrics was for Western-style shirts and women's dresses. The students evaluated the fabrics by touching them with a hand. We did not specify a procedure for the evaluation. The test fabrics were hidden from view behind a curtain in order to prevent the visual appearance of the fabrics from influencing the evaluation. The students were asked to evaluate the tactile feel based on only the sensation arising from touching the fabrics. The evaluation categories were "soft / hard," "smooth / rough," and "prefer / not prefer." Evaluations were performed in random order, using a scale from −2 to ＋2 according to the semantic differential method. We used the mean score of the subjective assessment as the tactile feel of the products.

Silhouette and Handle Design of Silk Chirimen Fabrics for Women^|^prime;s Thin Dress Based on the Mechanical Properties

“…Yang and Li [3] also reported that the crepe level can be controlled by adjusting the fabric width. In our previous study, the tactile feels with regard to cotton crepe fabrics were closely related to the fabric thickness [10]. In the present study, the preference with regard to chirimen fabrics was also closely related to the fabric thickness.…”

“…In our previous study, we evaluated the mechanical properties and handle of cotton crepe fabrics [10]. In the present study, we consider the suitable silhouette and handle design of silk chirimen for Western-style women' s thin dresses, based on the unique mechanical properties of chirimen fabrics.…”

Mechanical Properties and Handle of Cotton Crepe Fabrics

“…and preference. In our previous study, the tactile feel of textile materials was found to be strongly correlated with the mean deviation of the coefficients of friction (MMD) and surface roughness (SMD) [3,4,8]. However, for cotton crepe fabrics, we were unable to derive any significant correlation between tactile feel and these surface parameters as measured under the KES-FB standard conditions.…”

Changes in Hand Properties of Cotton Crepe Fabrics after Wearing

“…In a previous study [4], we examined the mechanical properties and hand of cotton crepe fabrics to establish a basis for the hand design of traditional cotton crepe fabrics for women's soft dresses and summer jackets. We consider pajama pants using cotton crepe fabrics to be suitable for inpatients for a long time if the fabric retains good hand after repeated wear-wash cycles.…”